More...the 66 reverse holder already has a scratch on it... 66 Reverse - scratch from E in CENT to the steps is in holder not coin. 67 Reverse
Just to clarify... I agree with buying the coin not the holder...or in this case keep the coin I like, not the holder. Before I posted I was leaning toward the 66, I just think its looks better. I just wanted to see if ya'll had any other advice or view points. The only reason I'll be keeping one is because these two coins were my first grading submissions *ever* So its kind of part of the journey in collecting for me. I've held off submitting anything because I wanted to make sure I had some experience and confidence in assessing a grade before I spent money to get one graded. I don't really collect too many graded coins. I have some but not a lot, but that doesn't mean I wont collect more. I'm not a huge LMC collector either. I more or less sent these in as a litmus test on my ability to grade and because I knew if they graded at what I thought the would I'd be able to sell them for way more than what I could just as a single coin. Now that they're back I only want to keep the one I really like just to have my first trophy so to speak. Plus the added benefit that I think the toning is just cool. I spent .43 for each of these. I bought a bulk set of SMS and proof strike coins and have already ebay'ed a good hand full each making me a tiny bit of money with out any major effort. Either one I sell will bring a nice single coin profit if that makes sense. This exercise has given me some confidence, so I'll probably try to find more in the lot that might bring a nice profit. I appreciate everyone weighing in. Its not really helped me make my decision, but it helps fill in the picture a bit more with regards to typical approach and what people are thinking about them. Plus I enjoy all the different view points. The RD vs. RB discussion is one that I will be digging more on...its an interesting designation that I've just kind of taken for granted and not really studied the minutia of. That said, don't stop here, if you have any other thoughts or suggestions I'm open to more.
Phankins11, Chris is right and pointed what I didn't mention in my response (because I thought it was understood). The information I threw out was for either side of the coin. If one side has less than 95% or 90% red (depending on the definition used), it doesn't matter whether the other side is full red or not, the coin is not full red.
I wouldn't keep either of them. In fact I'd try to find some toned-coin freak, that is the people who, for some reason, pay extravagant premiums for discolored and/or tarnished coins.
I am still trying to understand the animus directed at toned coins and toned collectors. It is no more foolish to buy an original toned piece at a premium than it is to pay full retail for a dipped out piece of dreck that is not liquid and will likely sell at a discount when it comes time to sell.
Dipped coins are accepted by the TPGs, and by the community, at large, really, by default. Back in the day when we were condition-grading, the dippers were our "coin doctors," dipping out toning, which was "environmental damage." We discount those coins today that were the victims of that corrupt practice back then, there goes probably half the market in silver coins, especially dollars. The damage is done. As long as it's not that bad, we accept it. To put this in better perspective, when I started collecting, I knew kids who could spot a dipped Morgan Dollar ten-feet away. We shunned those. Today, there are some who have surmised, that's probably the majority of the Morgan Dollar market. Go figure.