I see die deterioration doubling due to overuse and spreading of the face of the die. The lettering of the Motto and LIBERTY is forced to the extreme of the rim and the date and other areas can be distorted. Not a true " Doubled Die" .IMO, Jim
@Laurie B …you need to step up your photography game…please use better lighting and ensure the pictures you post are in-focus. Providing a close-up of the area of the coin that you are talking about would also be an improvement. …imo…Spark
I’m talking about your future posts. This coin was answered by @desertgem very accurately, no need for further pictures. I only mentioned these things to provide you with positive feedback/constructive criticism so you can improve your mechanics when posting here on Coin Talk. When you post better here, you get better help and improve yourself in the hobby in general and become a better collector/numismatist…imo…Spark
I am sorry about the pictures earlier I would not have posted it but I saw on variety vista they had one with the same 8 I had. The 8 is a lot thicker and I understand now what it it. Thanks for looking.
Laurie, you probably already know this , but for others. they may be concentrating on the specific area they see as different. But the coin is made by squeezing between 2 very hardened metal discs ( Dies) with inverse image. So the divergence between a true Doubled die and a damaged Doubling effect is whether the (1) Dies moved as they were manufactured thus producing 2 images ( Doubled dies) or the dies were correct, but they moved just slightly during producing the coins, and this is where beginners or cheaters ( people who are trying to sell the second type as a first type ( true doubled die) for big $$$ or as a rarity. Common on eBay as well as other selling places. Modern coins use single press die production and thus true "Doubled die coins" can't be produced, but many pretend they are This is a good article to read and ask us anything that might be hazy. https://www.usmint.gov/learn/production-process/die-making Jim
Wow that is amazing how it works. On Wexler site when they have it down for one with die markers are they then true doubled dies. I want to learn everything I can from everyone. I try to research it before I post. I for sure need to stay away from Ebay when I compare my coins.
I think R.S.Cooper ( COOP) in this comment on coincommunity. Basically markers in the earliest stage does not stay unchanging during the dies use. Die markers and tiny scratches, dings,over time come and go, especially when millions of a single coin like a cent are made, and usually, since many presses may be working the same time, each may produce coins with different markers and dings than was first recorded on a site. The magnitude and number existent will be a large factor of want. Others will surely have the feeling that every tiny deviation makes it worth much more than the common ones. IMO, Jim ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Die markers can be on a variety coin, or they maybe missing. Why? If an event happened to a die pair, the polishing may create die scratches, a clash might leave an outline of the opposite sides devices or sometimes cause a die to crack. While handing a die may get a die gouge in the field some place. A die crack maybe the start a chain of events, crack/chip/breaks/retained cud and finally a cud when the edge of the die breaks off. Markers like die scratches are helpful, but and flatten in the open fields with continued use. Polishing can remove clashes. But gouges, cracks/chips/breaks/retained cuds and finally cuds are not something that will go away. So markers can happen during the mid part of the life of the die. Coins struck before this event, will not have the later coins markers. Some markers may go away by polishing, adding new die scratches and as the die ages, die flow lines will start to appear. (yes even die flow lines that are distinct, can be used) But keep in mind, each die goes through the same events. A die crack needs to be in an exact spot, not just close. (then it might be a different die) Die dots, scratches may come and go away, but look close to the devices and inside of devices they may still be there because they don't flatten as fast when they are not out in the open part of a die. https://www.coincommunity.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=256460
Wow am I ever going to learn everything. Nothing is simple lol. I will look at the above link and see if I can learn even more. Thank you for all of the info. I thought all the die markings had to match up and even how could some old coins still have them.
