I'm sure many of you have got at least a coin that has been cleaned, and you'd like it to regain the original color. The defects on the coin won't go away but the ugly cleaning color just might. So I took a 1 cent coin, took pics, cleaned it, took pics of it cleaned. I am trying to find a method that might give the original color back to the coin, I have something in mind, it's a long process that might take months. Here's today's pics. I'll try once a month to post updates. Start your own little experiments if you've got the time and an idea.
Would the method of cleaning also be a variable to be considered? After all, you wouldn't want to clean it in the old-time favorite Rock Tumbler, would you? LOL!
I'm actually in the process of documenting before/after shots of many different types of cleaning on Lincolns - BU and circulated pieces.
I bought a 1922-D weak D & 1913-S that were harshly cleaned. I got them in a package deal for around $10. The pictures were bad but they were labeled cleaned. Cleaned was an understatement. I don't know how you could get a coin that slick & shiny without buffing away all the details, but if they weren't cleaned, they would be nice coins. They were also the most sickening color of pink you could imagine. I wrapped them in brown paper and put them in my wallet last July. I work outside, so they had a "damp" summer. I finally opened them about a month ago. They are still slick & shiny, but the color is MUCH better. I don't have before pics, but here are the afters. I'll replace them someday.
Unless the coins above were on grey paper, the color balance must be set properly if one wishes to evaluate the effects. I thought that white was most likely the color you used as a background, and when I take your photos and use a photo editor to correct it to white, the coins look much worse than yours. Thanks.
you can't un-ring a bell. The surfaces will never look original again. They might look acceptable, but they will never be restored to their original luster.
Let's just assume that you get the coin back to its original color, but the question is - just how long do you expect it to stay that color ? Let me show you something. Below is pic of a cent where I dipped half of it for 1 second. The pic was taken immediately after rinsing. What you see on the bottom half, is the original color. Here is the exact same coin, 3 days later. And here is the coin after 43 days. Now the area on the right that shows less toning is because that area was not only dipped, it was also rubbed with a pencil eraser. That caused that area to tone much slower than the rest. Nonetheless, it still toned very quickly. Beginning to get the idea ? Copper is the most reactive of our coinage metals, or was until Sackys came along. Copper coins begin toning the very instant after they are struck. So unless you work in the mint, or dipped one, you've never even seen a cent in its original color. What is called original mint red - isn't. Now the coin above was just left out in the air to show just how fast toning actually occurs. Sure you can slow it down with proper storage, but you can never stop it. So no matter what you do to your coins, you're probably not going to get them back to original color unless you dip them. But even if you do, they are not going to stay that way. So the question then becomes - what's the point of trying ?
By original color I mean the state of the coin before it was cleaned (pic1), not the original red condition just after was minted. The point is to get coin in pic2 to look like coin in pic1 again. Why? I've got and seen coins cleaned to bare metal that have not toned back. They just remain in the ugly pic2 condition.
Well, as you can see from the pics that I posted, getting the coin to tone back to the previous color is a pretty simple thing - just leave it exposed to the air and it will all by itself. Yeah, but that depends on the method used to clean it. And, it also depends on how long ago it was cleaned. For example, dipping, if done properly is an acceptable form of cleaning, not harsh cleaning in other words. But cleaning a coin with a pencil eraser is harsh cleaning. And again, as you can see from the pics I posted, the dipped areas re-toned very quickly while the eraser area did not as quickly. But it still re-toned to some degree. Different methods will show different results. But eventually they will all re-tone. There are also commercial products sold like Deller's Darkener that will re-tone cleaned or harshly cleaned coins almost immediately. And that would do what you are trying to accomplish as well. The important thing to remember is that there is cleaning and there is harsh cleaning. Cleaning is acceptable because it does not harm to the coin. Harsh cleaning is not acceptable because it does do harm to the coin. Now the coin posted pics of, either it was harshly cleaned by you, or by somebody else before you got it. I say that because I can plainly see the traces of it in your "after" pic. Would re-toning cover those signs of harsh cleaning up ? Not likely. It may well make it harder to see in pictures, but in hand it would still be visible to trained eyes.
Used Brasso to clean the coin. I never clean coins but in this case cleaned or not this coin is worth a penny not more. I used that 'cause I think most people that make the mistake to clean coins use the harsh way, not dip. I realize the re-toning won't remove the damage I made while rubbing with cleaner but at least it'd look a bit better.
Before using a compound on any surface, one should research its composition. Brasso: http://lakefrontsupply.com/MSDS/Brasso/Brasso_ Polish_ MSDS.pdf is mostly Stoddard's solvent ( mineral spirits) , petroleum products ( these won't directly harm the metal and are similar to organic solvents mentioned before on CT ) but also about 10% crystalline silica ( SAND), and kaolin ( clay like material, but still abrasive ) These are needed to make the metal shine brightly on spoor, buckles, etc....but when coins are look at with a magnifier and experience, it will be readily visible. Re-toning of any coin is not just reactions with sulfur ( Deller's or H2S as per White's method from Sodium sulfide, or raw sulfur flowers ( flour)), but other compounds that are in the environment and also add to the tone color. The toning of a coin originally reflects the environment that most layers were produced. Polluted areas product quick toning and 'Clear sky ' areas less. Add in industry, weather, etc. and you get the various coining effects.
And that's it in a nutshell right there. Does it really make it look better ? You see most people associate "better" with bright and shiny, so they define looking better as clean and or bright and shiny. But when bright and shiny is accompanied by fine scratches that cover the coin - it does not look better to an experienced coin collector. To an experienced coin collector dull and dirty and not covered with scratches looks better. It's kind of like if you had vintage car and it was just covered with dirt, road grime, and dried salt deposits from driving on winter roads. So to make it look better you take a dry cloth and start wiping it down. But when you are done the dirt etc may be gone, but the car is covered with fine scratches everywhere because of the way you cleaned it. And it does not look better.
You see any on the original pics he posted ? I sure don't. That said, I'd agree that it is not uncommon to see a light and small scratch or two on a circ coin, maybe even several of them on some. But that is a long way from a harshly cleaned coin that is often covered with them such as his after pics.
How could you see any scratches, the surface is so dark. To quote yourself, cleaning off toning often reveals signs of earlier harsh cleaning. Looking at coins I pull out of my pocket, I see many scratches. However I have to admit that abrasive cleaning would not only leave more, but they would be more consistently in one direction.
Yes, that happens at times. OK, but to answer your question to me, how do you see those scratches ? The coins in your pocket are dirty and dark aren't they ? The point is, if you look closely and you have the experience you can see scratches and other damage on dirty and dark coins. Maybe not every single one, but you sure can on a lot of them. I very rarely make absolute statements, and if and when I do I make sure to make it plain. I guess what I'm trying to across is that most of my comments are based on what is usually or typically true - not necessarily always true. There are exceptions to just about everything. But exceptions do not disprove the rule.
A little different process than Doug's coin, but with similar results. This is a BU red cent taken from a mint bag, then used masking tape and covered half the coin. The other half was exposed to Deller's Darkener... Lots of experiments like Doug's and this one, have helped me acquire an eye to identify bronze coins that have been "enhanced" or "restored" (particularly Canadian and NFLD large cents), which I can now avoid the temptation to purchase them...
OK, so in your opinion does the coin look better after a month ? I ask because the month later pic is kinda blurry and I can't tell.