What is the minimum collector grade?

Discussion in 'Coin Chat' started by Westtexasbound, May 5, 2014.

  1. silverfool

    silverfool Active Member

    I'm in your budget range myself, maybe lower. but I collect in a different manner. I just don't like low grade coins and won't spend a lot just to have one to fill a hole. everybody has their own goals and style to collecting. it you like early copper good luck and enjoy your collection.
     
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  3. Troodon

    Troodon Coin Collector

    Personally my preference is at least EF unless the coin is just so rare and/or expensive it's not possible to get better. But if there's at least one collector out there that's willing to buy a coin in a given grade, that's the minimum collectible grade right there.

    Talking old (pre-1933) gold or silver, probably anyone who calls themselves a collector and isn't looking to just invest in bullion, I would guess most would probably prefer F-12 at a minimum unless it's a very rare issue.
     
  4. Troodon

    Troodon Coin Collector

    P-1 is actually hard to find lol... partly because people rarely send in coins that would get such a grade unless they're extremely rare. Also it can often be a fine line between P-1 and ungradeable.
     
  5. Phil Ham

    Phil Ham Hamster

    I have coins in my collection that grade from P1 to PR70.
     
  6. KSorbo

    KSorbo Well-Known Member

    When I first started collecting coins during grade school there was no Ebay and no internet, so that left me with the Red Book. I still have a couple well worn copies from 1982 and 1983 that I spent a lot of time studying. Based on this I have always considered coins to be collectible in grades that are listed in that book. For example, most listings for coins from the 1790's start with AG, while silver dollars start in VF. Modern coins usually aren't listed in any grades below uncirculated. Circulated Jefferson's prior to 1959 used to be listed with a slight premium so I used to search for those in rolls that my dad brought home from the bank. Even though Red Book prices are not very accurate, I still think it gives a good indication of which coins have numismatic value.

    One of my prized possessions is 1794 Liberty Cap large cent certified problem free G4 by PCGS. I consider that to be a fairly high grade compared with many other Liberty Caps that are corroded or worn beyond recognition. Mine just has lots of wear and I'm okay with that. A 1921 Morgan in that grade, however, would not be very interesting. It just depends on the rarity of the coin.
     
  7. mark_h

    mark_h Somewhere over the rainbow

    Yes - you are correct. I was thinking mainly of ASE and AGE. When I was selling they were basically offering about spot for the uncirculated coins. I can't remember the proof graded coins. But the proof coins in the mint box was at set price - I remember the price was $42 at the time which was much better than the price for the uncirculated.
     
  8. CamaroDMD

    CamaroDMD [Insert Clever Title]

    Oh...OK. I was thinking you meant commemorative coins which are very hit or miss.
     
  9. PTrain22

    PTrain22 Member

    This is an excellent question I've been pondering myself. I have a very low-grade collection VG-VF mainly. Recently I've been considering adding more quality and less quantity. However in my area there aren't many "collectors" with high end pieces, just lower grade "junk". Truth be told I wouldn't sell any of my US silver coins for bullion price for two chief reasons. Firstly I look at the economics of it, if its not easy to obtain or acquire locally then demand should force at least a small premium even on lower quality coins. Secondly if the EBAY market has any influence on local business than it should set the price, which is going to be over melt 99.9% (unless you get lucky). Just some food for though.
     
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