Should I return this item (pic included)

Great advice! Thanks. I've been circling around a 1934-D Washington quarter on ebay for the day and a half thinking about putting a snipe on it. But it has an annoying mark on the reverse, almost like someone hit it with Sharpie. I keep seeing that mark. I suppose it could be on the 2x2 but I think I know now -- pass! I'll wait for the next one to come along.

 

Log in or Sign up to hide this ad.

Well, the newbie mistakes I made were not overpaying for great coins, but underpaying for coins that were almost what I wanted. In the long run, those coins annoyed me, and I sold them for a loss to acquire the pieces I should have paid a little more for in the first place. Live and learn.

 

IMO, your expectations are too high in conjunction with your experience which it appears is very little.

An accurate determination must first be made on exactly what it is that you are looking at.

Is it a scratch on the coin?
Is it a scratch on the die?
Is it even a scratch?
Exactly what is it?

Once that determination is made, then the question of return or not return could be addressed.

Personally, I would not return the coin BUT if I were looking for true "perfection", then I would "SHOP" for the perfect coin that could answer two questions positively:

1. What did the "professionals" say?
2. Do I agree with the "professionals?

 

Thank you.
I think OCD is taking over. My objective was to buy 1 ounce of Gold, get my first AGE, get the best example of an AGE to appreciate its beauty. My assumption is the proof would meet all objectives. I also assumed that the proof would have the highest quality control standards. Maybe I assumed all would be 69 or 70.

I don't think it's a scratch. It can only be seen at a certain angle. To me it seems to be more in the polish of the flat surface. I only noticed it at 4 times magnification. To the naked eye you have to have a light on it and spin it at the right angle AND know to be looking for it.

I don't know the difference in a scratch in the die vs coin. Is one more common than the other.?j I think my novice position. I don't know the norm so I expect perfection. I know this is wrong but its the starting point until I build experience or am told otherwise.

Any idea how the census breaks down. Percentage of 69/70 ?
What is the average grade for these?

 

AGE's are not beautiful and it sounds like you';ve allowed yourself to get sucked into buying something that you really do not want.

I understand this since I've been there many times. We get swept up into something and then start looking for a way out.

Many years ago, I felt the "need" to guy Gold Eagles and I purchased a 1/10, 1/4, and 1/2 eagle. I could not afford to spring for the whole enchilada but by golly, I had my gold.

Those 3 coins have LONG been gone and I've never really looked back.

I prefer to find my "beauty" in coins that suit my taste AND budget and I have learned a few things along that road.

Near the same time, I was also purchasing Silver Eagles. These fit me to a tee.

Maybe you should re-evaluate where you want to be and what you want to do in numismatics?

 

I plan to get a proof ASE each year. I was debating a proof AGE 1/4 oz each year but decided I would rather get a proof 1 oz AGE and then a proof American Buffalo. Single example of each. After that treated it as bullion and acquire based on available funds. I would want variety and change so I was thinking of the Gold Kangaroo since it changes. Eventually I would like to acquire pre 1933 Gold .....but I want to educate myself on this area before jumping in

 

Ignore that urge to buy at this time! Do more research and save your money for the time being, these coins are not rare and are not going anywhere. Just return the coin you got and hold your money for when you are ready to buy. Don't ignore a lot of the advice you are getting in this thread. Read up and ask questions based on the assumptions you had going into this, then go forward with a purchase.

Here is the population report page on PCGS. This is just one company and the percentage of what this one company has gicen 69/70 to is only to date those coins which have been submitted and achieved those figures for. Notice that 2014 are not yet shown.

You'll have to do further research with other TPGs, namely NGC and get their numbers too.

A way to get both companies figures in one place is to search lots on Heritage Auctions and read the census figures in the lot description. Here is an exaample you can look at for a 2012 Proof AGE Ultra DCam in NGC holder. HA accounts are free and there's a pleathora of information there for you to use, and you may even like something they have listed more than direct from the Mint.

Again, you are not going to find the quality you are after from the Mint directly. That is NOT the business they are engaged in. Their quality controls are not the same as yours nor a TPGs.

 

PCGS has a guide to show examples of older coins at each grade. Do you know of any sites that have up close examples of coins at each grade for Moderns?

 

Heritage auction archives.

 

The Hertiage Site is great. I looked at several of the proof AGE on "large" and realized two things. 1. Either the person taking the picture didn't wipe down the slap or the grading company doesn't hit the slab with some canned air before closing it. All of the coins had pieces of dust or fuze. 2. The slabs either look to scratch very easily or coins can get a high grade with a hairline. Some of the pictures you can see the scratch is on the slab by its pattern and how it carries over the raised and lowered surfaces. Some look like it could be on the coin.

 

Glad it helps you see some various things about the coins and holders.
But do keep researching and reading up on things as suggested by others.