Allow me to add, "More common, and therefore worth less". Sent from my iPad Junior Numismatist, Alhambra Coin Center www.lifeatthecoinshop.com www.facebook.com/lifeatthecoinshop
in order to become circulated (less than Mint State) they would have had to actually circulate. Most Silver Dollars never did.
I guess the easy answer for now, then, is what I've said before: That chart has no scientific backing by a predetermined process or formula or anything like it. But the goal was to put in a simple format information on Peace dollars that a strong majority of collectors would agree on to questions like "Hey, is this 1935-S in 60 common, or better, or what?" Sent from my iPad Junior Numismatist, Alhambra Coin Center www.lifeatthecoinshop.com www.facebook.com/lifeatthecoinshop
I like that you're focusing on condition rarity. I can get almost any peace dollar for $21 (other than '21, '28 and a few others I'm forgetting). But MS grades get tricky. For example, my early liberty nickels have big jumps (for nickels) between grades. Knowledge is always good, especially when attempting to guess the grade of an unslabed coin.
Bought my first Peace Dollar, it's green on Amanda's scale...but it's BU. Paid 25, what'd you think is that fair?
Yeah, seems logical to think so anyway. But there are several cases where a coin that is more common is actually worth more than those that are less common. And that applies in terms of both conditional rarity and absolute rarity. You did a great job of doing what you set out to do Amanda. You filled a need that has never been filled before, and one that has been asked for countless times. And the way you did it is just right
I think that conditional rarity is a huge part of the Peace Dollar series. Only two dates are really "difficult--" 1921 and 1928. 1934s falls into the conditional rarity, as do a number of the other s mint dates, where they're uncommon in MS. None of the Peace Dollars would constitute a wild numerical rarity in terms of mintages, but several of them are scarce in gem level MS. So, for that purpose alone, your chart is great, Amanda.
There was a book on antique furniture comparing similar examples by good better best called fine points of early American furniture by Albert sack it came out around 1950 was reprinted about a dozen times and an updated version came out in the 80s is still considered a must have reference I think what your trying to do with coins is a very similar type idea and could have similar results just saying that as a business owner as well as a coin collector I think th is idea is a real winner I don't think I'm alone here