1972 IKE CLIP - need validation

I would appreciate some knowledgeable input on this IKE dollar that appears to me to be a legitimate mint error and it might have more than 1 clip. Not to add doubt, but I know there are fakes. It is from my best recollection that this was found in a tellers bank drawer inside a roll of 1 dollar coins in the 1970's. Thank you.

 

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Sadly, I believe it to be a fake. =/

The rim does not go out toward the clip, and the opposite end of the coin does not display signs of weakness (to my vision at 1 AM that is) as is classic for curved clips.

The Y on the obverse gave me a little hope at first at it being real upon first examination, but I believe it to be a by-product of the coin being tampered with.

I am no expert, but this is just my two-cents. I do hope I am wrong for your sake.

Good luck.

 

Agreed. Doesn't look real. No fading on the opposite side of the clip. There's a name for it but I can't think of it.

 

agreed, no Blakesley effect.

 

agreed

 

machine press

 

The rim doesn't fade toward the clip. Something does look fishy.

 

I agree it looks fishy but the partial clipped area makes me think it may a good one

 

Please post a picture of the edge of the coin inside the clip.

 

I have to think its plausible. Here is why... Look at the smaller clip 4:00 on the reverse, now look at 10:00 on the reverse. Now I know that has nothing to do with the large clip and I know thats what the question is about.. I too would like to see a closeup shot of the third side of the coin in the major clip area.

 

sure, if by 10 on the rev you mean 2 on the obv?

 

yes, just looks more evident to me on the reverse. I was zooming in on the reverse looking at the cut letters on the big clip.

 

I surrender....

 

Don't surrender.

I don't believe that its an authentic clip either. I just need better evidence such as the edge within the clip. An authentic coin would have a specific clad pattern while a faked coin will just look like solid copper.

Additionally, clips as large as this sometimes do not have a "Blakeslee Effect". However, the devices "should" have blended into the clipped area.

 

I too, am skeptical as to it being authentic.

The only time where you get authentic clips looking like this, without the rim elements dovetailing into the clipped area, is when a planchet with an incomplete or partial clip enters the striking chamber and the incomplete clip breaks apart during or after the coin is ejected (even cooler when you have both pieces). But, as 19Lyds indicates, an edge photo will speak volumes.

Ironically, the second, very minor straight clip (4 o'clock on the reverse) does look legit. I am not sure with clad coinage, but in the larger, harder (nickel) Canadian coins, minor straight clips have a subdued, subtle Blakesley effect.

 

I was told there is metal flow distortion on the reverse by the olive leaves and the claw. Here is an edge image but it went into a 2.5 x 2.5 last night after those images were taken.

 

Looks cool.

 

The inside of the clipped area looks good to me . I saw what looked like it may be a tiny third clip in the other photos near the L in liberty. Take good care of your coin and you may want to let a error expert look at it in hand.

 

Based upon your pictures, the large clip is a fake.

Typically, when the blanks are punched from the metal sheets, the CnCladding on the bottom of the planchet gets stretched over the edges creating what appears to be a half CnCladding/half copper edge. This means that the blanking strip received the same action but in the opposite direction. For example, as the blanking punch "pushes" the blank through, the cladding on the bottom of the strip gets stretched up over the edge of the blank. Conversly, the blanking strips cladding gets stretched down into the hole just created by the blanking punch.

What this means is that a valid "clip" (incomplete planchet) will have copper towards one edge of the clipped area and the edge of the coin will have copper on the opposite edge.

Since the coins have 100% Copper Cores, physically creating a blank will create a solid copper core with no cladding showing except for a very thin line at the top and at the bottom of the clipped area.

Note how the copper core, on the clip below, is at the top half of the coins edge but at the bottom half of the clips edge.

 

Now why flat out declare the OP'S coin a fake without having it in hand to examine ? This could cause a possible good error coin to get thrown away. Why not say it looks fishy or could be a fake but not sure from the photos. I think the OP needs to let someone examine the coin.