Like to hear 'Ol timer wisdom on designations

With respect to the newbies (such as myself) I'd like to hear from guys/gals with 20+ years collecting. I've read a lot about the different types - FBL, FH, FS, etc. etc. For some reason I'm particularly interested in the FS nickels, I don't know why, as with the others I really don't care.

This said, do you consider these designations while buying/collecting? In your collection(s) do you have ALL coins one way or the other? Mix-n-match?

I tried to put together a *Non* FBL set of PCGS Franklins and finally gave up. Some years all I could find were FBL !!

Thanks for your thoughts...

 

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The strike designations do not mean much of anything regarding overall strike quality for the series in question. They simply describe 2% or so of the coin's surface. Therefore, in my opinion they are marketing tools much more than anything else. I have no use for the designations, but also acknowledge that many folks require them for their purchases.

 

I'll agree with Tom for the most part , but do only buy FB Mercs if I can help it . When a coin has these designations it's usually because the dies were fresher , meaning an over all better strike . Also FH designations to me are the most important because I don't like a SLQ with a flat head and no rivet details in half the shield . I look for coins with full strikes and without these designations the coins fall short .

 

I have to agree with rzage. The designations lead me to a finer strike and for my money quality is what really counts.

 

Great input - I didn't really think of overall strike... When you guys speak of these designations are you referring to specifically graded coins? Or when you're buying a coin to you visually inspect it yourselves? What's crazy is one price guide (Numismedia) puts a '49 nickel at $6 in MS64 and $330 in MS64FS! It gets even crazier the deeper you get... If these designations are a "fad", I'd hate to be an owner of a bunch of expensive coins when the fad fades!

 

Ya know Kevin? Back in olden times we used to pick the coins out of the change in our pockets with no regard to such modern dribble..........

Still holds today somewhat.......

 

Well, I had to stop and think about what FH, FBL, and FS mean... Myself, when I grade a Type I Standing Liberty Quarter, I do not look at the head. That said, I can only rubber stamp the advice given so far: these are indication of the earliest strike of "fresh" dies, so, yes, a purist could consider such designations important when buying.

However, more important is the actually LOOK of the coin hands-on, eyes-on. Not all Full Heads (or whatever) are created equal. When I buy wooden nickels, I only buy FR: Full Ring. (No, just kidding! Arrr-arr... )

Sure, we want to make money, but it is a HOBBY like bowling or model cars or knitting or scrapboarding. If you are not having fun, you are missing the point.

 

While none of the designations mean much to me while I have the coin in hand and can examine it, they mean plenty if I am doing site unseen trading with others. Though I would agree with Toms statement regarding the fact that these designations pertain to only a tiny fraction of the coin.

 

Welcome back Kirk! Gosh we (I?) missed ya........

 

Thanks Ken, I've been stuck in south Africa for the past few months trying to make a few chemical plants a little greener. I had a hard time remembering my password.

 

I've been hearing more and more of, "the overall look of the coin" with regards to many different aspects of the hobby... esp. from people in a 'hands on' situation i.e. coin stores, coin shows, etc. I think it's tougher in the online world to diagnose that overall look, hence all the grading/designations etc.

I've mentioned in other threads that I've relied (to a large degree) grading and now designations to help me buy online. The shows I attend seems to be the same dealers with the same coins. My local guy is super but limited at best...

 

Been collecting since about 1982 and have spent way too much $$$$$$$ on coins over the years. However in all that time, I have NEVER been focused on what the "market makers" have tirelessly tried to focus my attentions on.

Listen.... Never EVER collect coins for a profit. Just embrace the hobby as the pure joy it is and you will never go wrong.

I have several thousand coins in the collection and every one of them has a story. Only a handful were added as an "investment". And ALL of those were a disappointment!!! I have NEVER purchased a coin as an INVESTMENT that I didn't REGRET!!! Never one time!!! And I am not talking about profit! If you don't get this then stop reading now.

Even today I will make a 200 mile round day trip to visit a coin dealer just to browse their new acquisitions and pass the time. And that to me is the JOY of numismatics. Isn't it? If not for you, then think about why you love coin collecting as you do. Is it the coin or the $$$? If it is the $$$ then move on to your next interest. If it is the history, beauty, track, and numismatic traits, then you are true to our love.

At almost 60 years of age, I have no time for those who prostitute their love of $$$ for their love of rarity, beauty, strike, toning, history, and exquisite desirability. I will be dead in 30 years. My collection will then be put up at auction. But my love for the science and satisfaction of numismatics will live on in the rare few that feed on what that really means. I salute you!

 

If I came across as wanting to profit, that was not my intent. I don't, though, want to be stupid and purchase coins that are not at or near market value. I've learned we all make mistakes and will continue to make mistakes, but my goal is to keep those to a minimum. PART of my enjoyment in the hobby is knowing that if I spent $100 on a coin there is a real possibility I can get that back if/when I sell it. Again, as long as I'm making the right purchases to begin with...

Some of my other hobbies are flat out money pits....

 

Where money *really* affects my hobby is when I can't afford a coin that'd I'd really love! That is no fun... (sometimes I save photos of out of reach coins on my PC just to look at)

 

What Doug said.^
Using your example of the '49 64FS for $300. For my money, I'd much rather find a well struck 66 grade non FS for 1/6 th of the price. Yes, the 66 might have a couple small defects in the steps but ask yourself if you'd rather have a nice collection of steps, or a nice collection of coins.

 

Gosh, leave it to Doug to make me want to my nickel(s) in the lake out back... This PCGS 1950-D does have the FS desig. and just look at the building! --after posting thought I should mention the PCGS grade of MS65

 

"FC" = Full Corn on V-nickles.

 

"FBF" = "Full Bow Finger" on Oregon Trail Half Dollars