Coin Storage

no man ...still reduced air flow....it is INSIDE of something, a 2x2 in this new case...R-E-D-U-C-E-D A-I-R F-L-O-W....once you reduce the air flow below a certain point, its all the same...a 2x2 and a ziplock bag and a IS product are all within a marginal amount...but you are paying a ridiculous amount for that intercept or coin armour stamp on it....save your money, i assure you it is an expensive ziplock

 

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Yeah bud, of course, this is America, believe what you want. But I don't believe what I wrote. I know it. Because its based on facts. But I am sure you blindly believe things all the time.

 

But the fact remains that slabs probably have less airflow than the IS 2X2s which just snap together compared to the sonically sealed slabs, but the slabbed coins have changed more in color than the IS product . The difference would seem to be the IS technology , not just reduced airflow .

 

You are both wrong. A chemist agrees with me. He however defaults to the generalization that the two end with the same result. A fact challenged by a more experienced chemist. Sorry. And slabs do not claim to be air tight, at least not from PCGS or NGC. SOOOOOO that little word in your statement of "probably" actually counts here. No. Not probably. More like, NO. look, if you want to spend your money on that expensive ziplock bag coin armour go for it. The entire materials engineering dept of UF is laughing at you. The bottom line is you can say whatever you want on a forum but reality checks you here and there and unfortunately you are of the mindset of throwing away money. And I cannot value the opinion of someone backing such idiocracy.

 

It seems you hear what you want to hear nothing else . Nothing is airtight in the way of coinholders , I said the IS 2X2 is probably less airtight , remember you're the one talking reduced air flow . Why do the IS coins tone less than slabs ? They both have reduced airflow , (your words not mine) . But for some magical reason ( sarcasm so you don't take it literally ) the coins in the IS product haven't changed much where the slabs have . The coins are all US Type coins of silver or copper from 1806 to the '1940's . Plus before this thread I never heard of the Armour product , I'm only referring to the IS products .

 

My only issue with this thread was the word "absorption" and since then, this thread has transitioned over to "surface area", which I believe we all agree upon. Reduce the amount of atmosphere that is in contact with a coin, the better the coin will be preserved, which seems we all agree upon. No matter what product we use, if we don't protect the product itself, it will not protect the coin. Taking a coin, wether its in a coin armor product, a ziplock bag or a leather shoe, and leaving it outside in the heat, humidity and/or cold, will not save it. There is no magical product that will save the coin from those conditions, in itself.

In my opinion, the best produced to preserve a coin, THAT HAS A PERFECT EVEN RIM, with no nicks what so ever, would be your simple 2x2 holder, simply because the rim would help seal the face of the coin, reducing the amount of atmosphere that is in contact. I have yet to find a coin that fits that description though, so I think airtites would be the next best thing.

I respect everyone's opinion on what they want to use to protect there coins, as long as it does just that. If it doesn't hurt the coin in anyway, then truly there is no issue here.

 

AAAAARRRGGGGGHHH. What did I start here? All I did was show part of my collection as stored in plastic tubs. Doug correctly advised me to get rid of the cardboard, which I used to pack my coins for moving, and I agreed with him. This has gotten out of control. My only intent was to show my storage option, and perhaps elicit other folks' consolidation of their collection photos. Mea Culpa!!!

 

Yeah Morgan, you didn't do anything wrong but I understand how you feel. I started a thread on facebook asking "what's on your bucket list", it ended up being the most depressing conversation I ever started.

 

Important things you should know: To prevent your coins from tarnishing or oxidizing the best thing you can do is first have your coins encapsulated by a TPG as this will provide you with an excellent form of protection from any physical damage to the coin. These slabs are not air tight nor are they vacuum sealed. If you really wanted to put your coins away for long term storage purposes, you would put your slabbed coins into a metal box with refrigeration fittings on it. Refrigeration fittings or hardware are rated for operating in a vacuum. It would require some customization to be done, in order for refrigeration service ports to be added to the metal box but once you have a sealed box you would be best served by using a vacuum pump to pull the box into a deep vaccum meaning sub 500 microns. You can then break the vacuum by introducing a small volume of dry nitrogen inside the box. The box will still be in a slight vacuum and it will also contain the best desiccant one could hope for: Dry N2.

 

Wouldn't it be expensive if I put coins into metal box with refrigeration fittings?

 

O hell yes. I mean expensive is relative. But for the vast majority of people who lack any knowledge of things such as how to go about creating and maintaining a deep vacuum, indeed this would be an expensive endeavor. However, I am confident I can construct such a storage unit for the cost of the materials only so about $150. There are a few things u need to know about storage of coins in a manner such as this. First, this is meant for LONG term storage. On the order of decades without opening (the longer the better). And I should really correct a previous statement I made. With regards to putting the coins in a deep vacuum (200-500 microns), I would first pressurize the cointainer with Dry Nitrogen (N2). I would add maybe 0.5 psig of dry nitrogen and allow the N2 to work its magic. Inert Dry Nitrogen is a fabulous dessicant meaning it will do a great job of removing moisture inside of the box. I would purge this storage container (with the coins inside, as u want the nitrogen to come in contact with the slabs or raw coins). Gaseous Dry Nitrogen (N2) can be easily found at welding supply stores, and I can say from experience and surrounding coins in an atmosphere of N2 is in NO WAY harmful to coins of any metal or alloy. So after purging the box 3-4 times, always adding just under 0.5 psig of N2, then opening a valve which allows the N2 to leave the box and the pressure inside the box to return to atmosphereic before adding in another 0.5 psig of N2. So after doing this purge for 3-4 times over a day or two I would lastly hook up the vacuum pump and a good quality dual thermistor style analog vacuum meter, and pull the box into a deep vacuum finally. In pulling a deep vacuum inside of the box you are removing the ingredients needed for the oxidation process to occur. The main ingredient would be the Air of which 20% is Oxygen. The removal of all non-condensible gases within the box ensures an environment free of the components necessary for a coin to oxidize. I would finally break the deep vacuum by adding just a small amount of dry nitrogen so that the pressure inside the box would be just slghlty positive. If anyone has any other questions or is actually interested in how to store coins in the most advantageous manner so as to assure they remain looking as good as they do right now, by all means feel free to drop me a line. But to answer the poster's question, yes..
Expensive

 

So the vacuum state would be just for purging purposes, correct? Then leave it in a postive nitrogen state?

I think agron would work as well.

 

How would you ever get the door to seal?

 

the only people who start something here is me and GD and when we start everyone stops. sulking is a bad habbit

 

Correct. After pulling the vessel into a deep vacuum there is NO moisture and NO air (oxygen in particular) inside the chamber. However nature abhors a vacuum, so what I would do would be to break the vacuum using dry nitrogen, bring pressure in the vessel (as measured by a pressure gauge attached to the vessel) to like half a psig. This will make the vessel slightly more positive in pressure than the surrounding environment which is what we want. Argon could also work as it is an inert gas though I am not as familiar with it as far as dessicants go.

 

Well, that is twice now, so I'll take a stab at it. The "door" has a gasket or some such which is secured first. The vac and gas movement is via a fitting with a valve. Close the valve, then disconnect the inert gas source as the last act.

Is that what you were wondering?