On my way back from the Chicago ANA show, just before I got home I decided since I still had money in my pocket to drop by my LSC. I picked up this one marked at $75 and they gave it to me for $65. I checked my Redbook (which is a 2012) and it listed this date in VF at $90. I thought that was a good deal and it was a less common date being a 51-O. Low and behold I look on eBay and there are only 2 others of that date... an MS65 for $12,700 and a VG for $299. That was it! No more! So I put it up and BAM: sold for $300! I was stunned! So my questions are: Is the 2014 Redbook price higher? Was it just demand that made it sell so high? Or can you throw Redbook out the window when it comes to semi-key dates?
When it comes to prices, you throw the Red Book out the window no matter what. All the time, every time. I suspect you got that coin at that price because it's a problem coin, it's scratched rather heavily, damaged. And that's all it's worth. $300 + or - is the going rate for a VF30, problem free example. So whoever bought that coin for $300, they paid way too much.
GDJMSP, how about some useful info... if Redbook is useless, what should I use to get a good idea on pricing? Thanks.
WB-101. NORMAL DATE. (5 HEAD DIES) Noticeable date placement variations exist including iow, centered, and high date. (Breen-4827 and 4828)
Doug is right. Redbook= Fantasyland. Think Priceguide (still too high), and E-bay completed sales, as well as Gray sheet.
And now you know why so many prices are high on ebay. I have often thought if I looked hard enough at the lcs I could buy retail and still sell on ebay and make money. This is a perfect example.
Major auction records over the past couple of years show 3 sales in lower circulated grades at $259 in VG08 in Nov 2012, at $322 in VF30 in May 2012, and $499 for a VF35 in Oct 2012. The coin above looks like a slightly problematic VF35, net VF20. Therefore, I think you got an incredible deal, and the buyer still has a little bit of room.
redbook is high but i still use it as a value guide when making a purchase. if i get something way under red book i think its a good deal. and when ive got my eye on a coin but dont know which date to get and there all around the same price i use the red book to see which date has a higher price im thinking about signing up for red book online so i can read all of whitmans books free then decide which ones i want to buy and the red book one line looks nice on a cell phone so i wont have to carry it with me
Completed sales, yes, but this is an example of when the CDN can be just as worthless as other so-called guides. Is it though? This is a perfect example of the folly of always assuming the redbook is high. While it does overvalue many, many coins, there are others it does and long has undervalued. You say that you're a dealer, right? I've read enough of your posts here to get the idea that you know everything is not black and white; know what you're selling and understand your market. If you continue to sell tougher seated material, the time will come when you have to explain to someone why they cannot buy certain coins at guide prices. On the other hand, a thorough knowledge of the series can allow you to buy on the cheap from some "by the book" dealers.
I sure would not use ebay completed auctions as a guide. Way too many buyers there who don't know anything about coins and paying way more than the coins are worth. Heritage and the other major auction houses are the only sources that one should ever use to research the value of a coin. And as already noted, even the Grey Sheet has its limitations. But for average coins that are average for the grade, it's a usable resource. Make note though, the prices listed in the Grey Sheet are for sight seen coins only ! (and sight seen does not mean looking at a picture, it means looking at the coin in your hand !) And the prices apply equally to raw coins and slabbed coins.
Don't lose sight of a few very important things . . . Major auctions are attended and / or participated in only by a limited segment of the market, typically those willing to spend a thousand dollars or more on the traveling expense alone, and that's before even buying any coins. Most of those are dealers who will subsequently sell those coins to end users paying additional profit on top of the dealer's investment. Therefore, be careful not to assume that auction prices realized necessarily represent the high price in the market . . . often it is even higher. There are just as many overzealous bidders paying too much for the wrong coins at major auctions as there are savvy buyers who pay the right prices for coins outside of major auctions. Prices realized at major auctions are most certainly not the only reliable source for pricing information. I referenced that information in my prior post because it is easy for others to research for themselves, and confirm my claims. As are all price guides, Grey Sheet is merely a guide. It is published based on surveying the transaction results submitted by a select few dealers of the large number in the marketplace, and often poorly reflects the actual market. As you implied, for sight-seen, generic dates in generic condition for the grade, Grey Sheet is a usable resource . . . in fact probably remains the best resource, but only for those coins. - Mike at toughcoins.com
Major auctions may only be attended by those willing to spend travel expenses, but they are participated in by thousands of others. Many have a dealer or other attendee acting as their agent at the auction. Many others participate by phone. And in some many participate via live web site. And still many others will send mail bids. And I strongly disagree, very strongly in fact, that there are just as many paying too much at major auctions as there are at ebay or anyplace else. The vast majority of those participating in major auctions know what they are doing and know the market. The vast majority of those participating on ebay do not. The proof of this is legion. Yes I will readily agree that there are savvy buyers who buy strictly from trusted & respected dealers. But sadly, those people make up a very small portion of the market. many times I have given the advice that is what smart collectors should do. But sadly few listen. And I am well aware of what the Grey Sheet is and what it represents. And I will also agree that realized prices at major auctions are not the only reliable source. But they are the only the only reliable source that the average collector has access to, for free. Sure, you can check the electronic dealer networks, IF you have access to them. But the average collector doesn't even know they exist, let alone have access to them. And you can also use private sales, if you have access to the information - most don't. It's easy to point to specifics and say such and such is not true because of those specifics. But exceptions to the rule do not disprove the rule, that's why they are exceptions. In general, realized prices at major auctions are the single best resource to which most collectors have free access. But sadly, all too few use that resource.
I get what you're trying to say here, but I'm still hearing a faint echo of Yogi Berra -- "Nobody goes there anymore. It's too crowded." Maybe eBay does draw more uneducated buyers, but those buyers are still participating in the marketplace, and they're still (obviously) affecting prices. Suppose I've cherry-picked a coin from my local dealer, or Craigslist, or a badly-photographed eBay lot. I see that that coin is consistently bringing $500 (net to seller) on Heritage), but the bidiots at eBay usually take it up to $600-700 (again, net to seller). Where am I more likely to list that coin? If other sellers are equally rational, where are buyers most likely to find the coin? And, given this, what is the effective "value" of the coin? If eBay is bringing more uneducated buyers into the market, that's going to have an effect on market pricing, which I think is the kind of "value" we're discussing here. It certainly happened during the "coins for retirement" bubble of the late 1980s.
It comes down to the difference between educated buyers and uneducated buyers. An educated buyer will only pay so much for a given coin. An uneducated buyer will more often than not pay too much for that given coin. People always ask - what is the value of a coin ? The answer is not the highest price ever paid. Several reasons for that, not the least of which among them is that prices can vary greatly, by 100-200% even in either direction, at given points in time. The value of any given coin is what an educated buyer will pay for that coin at the present time. Another reason is that somebody who knows little about coins may pay say $500 for a given coin. It happens every day. But take that same exact coin, offer it to 10 or 20 educated collectors and or 10 or 20 dealers the very next day and the best any of of them will pay is $200. What is that coin worth, $500 or $200 ? It's worth $200. There are literally hundreds of thousands of examples on ebay of people buying coins in any of the scam slabbers slabs and paying outrageous prices for them. Is even of those coins actually worth that much ? No, of course not. There are thousands and thousands more examples of people buying obvious fakes and counterfeits, altered coins, problem coins, etc etc - are any of those coins actually worth what was paid ? No, of course not. The same holds true for any uneducated buyer paying too much for a any given coin, anywhere at any time. A coin is only worth what an educated buyer will pay for it, at any given time.
But if the educated buyer has to compete with uneducated buyers, either: Directly -- by bidding against them in a given venue, or Indirectly -- because venues full of "uneducated" buyers draw sellers away from venues of "educated" buyers, then prices still go up. I guess your take on this, Doug, is that we should still just watch prices on HA and other "major auction house" venues, and if what I say is true, those prices will go up to reflect it. That's a fair and self-consistent view of value, but I'm not sure it's the only valid one.
Everybody is entitled to their own opinions. But what I have been suggesting and explaining is what the smartest and most experienced dealers & collectors do. You, or anybody, can either choose to follow their lead, or not.