Quick question. I know with the slq grade is everything since in lower grades it just doesn't do well. I've heard to stick with AU and up to maintain detail and quality. My question is about the au grades, is there a noticable difference between say an au 50 and a 53 or a 53, 55, and 58? I ask this because I saw a 53 but it seems worn in the photos, is this normal for 53 and should stick to 58s? What's an acceptable AU grade for SLQ's?
I would say AU-58 with only small traces of wear on the high points of knee, gown and shield. Also eagles breast and wings. But there is just something about the VG-F grade that i really like.
SLQ meaning Standing Liberty Quarter or Seated Liberty Quarter? I assume Standing Liberty Quarter. I would not necessarily suggest for folks to stick with AU SLQs since the jump to MS63 is generally quite small in absolute dollars on a per coin basis and the coins appear much more liquid at that level.
Tom this is for a type set that I'll upgrade over the years. From what I've seen through prices and research an au is a good starting point for me. I was just wondering if there was an au grade preference.
My opinion is that most (particularly TYII) become unattractive in grades less than Ch AU, but others surely disagree. The key here is to decide what appeals to you, but always get the best you can afford instead of focusing on a specific (labeled) grade. As for "noticeable differences" in AU grades, of course there are. If you do not like this so-called 53 (a questionable grade to begin with IMO), pass on it and keep looking. As for sticking with 58's, all depends on the coin in question. If a true slider and depending on the date/mint, I believe this grade can offer great value if not paying for its present niche demand, but if a questionably labeled 58, avoid and continue your search. One thing I would like to suggest is that you research the series. You mentioned no date in the OP, but you should understand the average strike characteristics for individual dates, and if collecting as a set, search out better struck examples of usually weak dates. The average will always be average, so as already mentioned, search out the best example(s) you can afford instead of settling for something you may regret or will want to upgrade sometime down the road.
Here is a PCGS AU58 CAC. Without the light rub it would likely be an MS64 or better. Very few marks and full luster:
You can find AU58 or AU58+ that are as nice as or better looking than many MS60 thru MS63. I found a nice raw one for my type set and I have cracked out AU58 PCGS coins for my type set
Buying coins with the intention of upgrading them later is almost never a good idea. The reason it's never a good idea is because all you are doing is throwing money away. By far, the best thing you can do is to just wait, save up a bit more money, and then buy the better coin - the one that would be your upgraded coin. You see, if you buy a coin with the intention of selling it later, you will almost never get back what you paid for that coin. So if you paid $300 for a coin, when you sell it you can count yourself lucky if you manage to get $250 back for it. So that's like throwing $50 away. Do that with 20 or 30 coins and how much money have you thrown away ? So the the better thing to do is save that $300, wait until you have $500, and then buy the better coin which is the one you really wanted to begin with.
GDJMSP, That too is something I've considered and is something I've been aware of the whole time. My justification for that is a couple of things. One, I'm only 25 so I have my whole life and have barely scratches the surface with what I want to do with my collection. Second, when upgrading or selling coins for a "small" lose is something I've always been ok with, I consider it a "fee" for enjoy the hobby. I see where you're coming from but with how I'm going about it in the long term I'm not too concerned about the particular upgrade problem.
