Franklin Half Guidance

I'll most likely let it go. I maxed out my silver funds for this month. I'm waiting on the 2 ASE Westpoint coin set to come out and am also picking up a 1/10 OZ 2013 AGE.

 

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No serifs on the L's on the D mint one in your pic.

 

Unless you missed my post, I'll assume I'm wrong about the doubling evident throughout these pieces, especially on the L. I concluded they are mechanical doubling after looking at the CPG and on doubledie.com ... The only other thing I can think is that you are trying to point out that even though these coins are the same year, 2 are from Philly, 1 from Denver. But in the pictures, the coins appear to be from the same die?

 

Honestly, none of those coins are worth either what they sold for or what was being asked for them. The pictures are a dead giveaway. They are all (washed out?). I always figure the seller has all that white area in the pics for a reason, probably hiding lots of marks..and maybe some major ones.

From those pictures it would be hard to notice the marks as a beginner. Where the contact marks usually are are in the wide open fields on the obverse as well as Franklin's cheek and ear area. On the reverse I tend to see them mostly on the bell itself and here and there on the wooden upper part of the bell.

If you look closely you might start to be able to see it in the pictures.

The two things that have helped me the most, and I would recommend to you, in becoming familiar with this series(it happens to be my favorite) are buying a few graded coins ranging from MS64-66 some FBL some not FBL and the other is checking Franklin listings on eBay.
Just from spending a lot of time looking at some actual third party graded coins, whether it be PCGS or NGC, has helped me a lot in being able to grade raw Franklins for myself. Also checking out Franklin listings on eBay helps out so much. I look at pretty much all of the new graded and raw UNC Franklin half listings on eBay every day, from doing that I think I've really got a good sense of which coins are of a higher quality and that has given me so much more confidence when buying.




PS: The prices for those particular coins you listed aren't unreasonable, I just believe that with a little patience you will be able to find much more quality for your money.

 

The right end on the bottom seems to flare out on the eBay coins.

 

All points well taken bsowa, thank you so very much for your input!

 

SO it's doubled. 1948-D/D WRPM-003/WDDR-001

 

I just posted my Franklins here if anyone is interested
http://www.cointalk.com/t202574/

 

methinks Doug is saying that these are potentially not authentic because the lettering looks off.

Too much tooling, wrong angles, or things of this nature make me think potential chinese counterfeit.

Do I see what you're seeing Doug?

 

Yes, I see what your talking about. Do you think they are fakes? Would they actually make counterfits of an inexpensive coin? The plot thickens LOL, Thanks So VERY much Doug. Again, I really appreciate your taking time with me on this. I obviously have quite a bit to learn about Franklins...

 

Ok, so I broke down and went to my LCS and picked up a Franklin.... Any thoughts on how I did? Grade? Hit me over the head cause I bought it? Any pointers would be great. *(sorry I posted it here, I didn't want it to get lost in the Post your Franklins thread)*

I'm trying to learn about these and though this coin may be a good safe first purchase of a Frankiln.

 

For those of you who listen to NPR's 'Car Talk' . . . this reminds me of the . . . 'Weekly Puzzeler'.

 

That's what I thought, but still not sure. I bought the 48-D. Will post better close-up pics when it arrives and we'll see. I thought the only DDR 48-D was also a D over D... is that wrong?

 

Thanks Doug, I got it for a good price so I'm pretty happy with it.

 

For our education and to satisfy our curiosity, here she is. I don't see any doubling. Baggy obverse, but nice FBL coin nonetheless!