So I have been re-working my coin images and its coming along slowly. I still have tons of coins to re-take images of. Some of them are harder than other and some I have noticed looks drastically different. I have read many articles here and on google. The camera I'm using is still my old cheapo camera, the only difference is the setup. Feel free to critique all you want, I am still learning as I go along. Here is an example of a coin I posted a long time ago but have recently retook the picture of. and here is the new picture
NO! The new photo is not better. I don't know what lighting you are using icerain, but I have seen enough Morgan Dollars in hand to tell you that I have never seen one that looks like your second photo. The contrast is wrong, the color is wrong, and I don't see a significant improvement in detail to warrant sacrificing the correct color or contrast. My advice is to scrap whatever method you are currently using and try to refine your older method. If you could, can you explain your camera and lighting set up for each photo shown above? My guess is that you are using some sort of diffuser for the second photo, am I right?
Lehigh. Yes, it is diffused lighting. I have been noticing it is hard to capture the toning of many of my coins. I have read that diffused lighting would bring out the toning. However, this coin is blast white save for the rim which is toned. It is also much whiter than many of my other Morgans, don't know if that makes any difference. Also where before I was using only one lamp as a light source. I am now using two to try to eliminate the shadows and dark areas. The coin is also resting on a flat surface.
The problem with diffused lighting is that is completely eliminates luster and it reverses the contrast between fields and devices. When shooting proof coins, this can be an acceptable method of display, but for a mint state Morgan it just comes off as unrealistic. If you are having trouble getting toning to show, you need to get more light on the surface of the coin. The best way to do this is to get the coin far enough away from the camera so that no shadows are cast on the coin. Secondly, you should use two, sometimes three lights for best results. Now Todd (blue2vette) doesn't tilt his coins into the light and he achieves incredible results, but he is a professional using professional equipment. Take a look at this photo, it should speak volumes about my setup. At the time i shot this, my camera was 8-10 inches away from the surface of the coin. I submit that the only difference between my photo and yours is the extra light and distance away from the camera. Remember, your photo does need to fill the view finder. It only needs to be about 600x600 pixels to be a nice functional silver dollar photo. Give it a try with 2 lights from a further distance. Make sure the lights are at 10&2 and as close to the coin as possible without creating slab glare. Try it out and show us your results.
Lehigh, thanks for the advice. I took a few quick shots with your setup. The photos came out really nice.
I wish I had the time to methodically improve my picture taking like you. The latest photos are great but only you will know when the photo really looks like the coin in hand. Check the lighting-type setting on your camera & make sure that it is set for the type of light bulbs you are using (white balance). If the background you are shooting is white, then the photo background should look the same color white. Sometimes your photo editing software can help you with the white balance. Also, use a tripod & turn-on the shutter delay so that you are not touching your camera when it takes the photo. This keeps the camera steadier when it is taking the photo. It is nice to see the photos so keep them coming.
Big improvement icerain.:thumb: If you follow Collect89's advice, you will find yourself with a great photo. One last tip, make sure that your lighting is at as high angle as possible, meaning you want the lights shining straight down at the coin, not at an angle. Part of the reason I use CFL bulbs is that I have found that the combination of those bulbs and the florescent setting on my camera provides me with the most accurate white balance. Keep up the good work!
Thanks for all the advice. Here is another coin I reworked, though its not toned I do see some improvement. same crusty coin
