The start on my very 1st album, and a question for album collectors.

The problem with mercs is that I am a VERY finicky collector when it comes to sets. I want every coin to look BU like it just came out of the roll back in 18xx or 19xx. Finding high grade older mercs and get expensive.

Of course I'm not going to do that right off the bat. I want to fill the album up, then upgrade over time.
Then of course you have the 16-D which will set you back 3 figures.

 

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Detecto as far as mercs, why not try a short set like the war years 1940-45?

 

It's true, the 1955's were hoarded and are pretty common, even in MS. I fell for it too and bought a bunch, but sometimes the numbers lie, plus 12 million is still a big figure.
The dates for your semi keys fall between 1948 and 1953, as you build your set you'll see the gaps in that area. 1946 & 47-PDS are common because it was the "new coin" and everyone saved 'em. 1954 for some reason is common, in 1955 and after Mint set production was rapidly rising making Uncs. more readily available.
I'll actually agree that 49 D-S are the keys and 50-S, 51-S and 52-S and a D or two on those dates are much harder to come by in MS because not many were saved and Mint Sets for those dates are pretty big $$$$

 

it's not just the mintage it's how many survived in high grade. people knew the '55 was a low mintage for all mints and the last S mint so many, many rolls were saved at the time and many BU coins exist today. not so with the other semi-keys in mint state.

 

On the fill holes vs. upgrade issue-
With a collection like Roosevelt dimes it should be pretty easy to find every possible coin so filling holes will likely be an option every time you have money. If it was a different collection, say barber dimes, you would get to a point where you wouldn't be able to find the coin you are looking for and upgrading would be the easier choice to move the collection forward. However I wouldn't purchase a coin if you know you are going to be unhappy with it and need to upgrade right away.

 

My plan for the 1965-2012 is to try to get every dime from either cello, mint rolls, or "BU". That way every dime from 65-2012 looks mint.

As far as the 1946-64 I'm going to fill every hole, but slowly upgrade them over time. I can buy the "hole fillers" for melt, and sell them for melt, so when it's upgrade time, I'm not taking a loss.

 

What do people use for placing coins in albums? Latex gloves?

 

... I always use cotton "jewelers" gloves, seems to be the best. Using rubber/nitrile gloves could transfer organic compound's that stick to the gloves, on to your coins. I'm no pro, but thats how I do it

Erik

 

Album filling sounds like a fun challenge. You're right about ebay, the shipping cost usually kills the chance to get a good deal on the lower priced single coins.

 

I've actually decided, as a bit of a challenge to do the entire set in BU. I sold the other dimes I had except for the '57 BU I had.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-ROOSEVELT-SILVER-DIMES-1958-1958-D-BU-BRILLIANT-UNCIRCULATED-/221135611862?_trksid=p2047675.l2557&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&nma=true&si=8zfrGf3eFX9yiMw7XE2NEdTfL%2B8%3D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc

Two BU for $3 each.

A 63 I paid just a tad more than melt for.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pretty-Nice-1963-Roosevelt-Silver-Dime-Great-for-a-Collection-/261109928814?_trksid=p2047675.l2557&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&nma=true&si=8zfrGf3eFX9yiMw7XE2NEdTfL%2B8%3D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc

The 1st year Bu in P D and S.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/330805946276?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

A 52-S in BU.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/320995511705?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

 

Someone wanted these worse than I did. They paid $5 each for them, totally not worth it.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1954d-Rosevelt-Dime-Set-3-Pcs-1955s-1958-/180991475882?_trksid=p2047675.l2557&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&autorefresh=true&nma=true&si=8zfrGf3eFX9yiMw7XE2NEdTfL%2B8%3D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc

 

You are going to have a tough time building a BU set of any quality for less than $5 each.

 

Roosevelt dimes are not too bad. I've been paying no more than $3.75 each.

I have eliminated barber dimes, there are just way too many key dates.

1892-S for $60, 1893-O for $25, 1894-O for $60, 1895-O for $300+, 1895-S for $35. (Estimates).

That's just a few short years, and look how much it would cost.

 

Looking at SLQ's, there is only one bank breaking SLQ (besides the 1916 ) and that's the 1923-S at around $300.

Mercury dimes don't look too hard to do.

As far as halves, franklins look pretty easy. No expensive key dates.

I've eliminated all barber coinage, too many expensive keys.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/160900083689?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1431.l2649&autorefresh=true

Wow, $4.51. Numismedia says $3.75

 

You can't always go by what someone says a coin is worth. What it is really worth is to you,the collector. Someone must needed that coin and didn't care how much they pay for it.

 

Is overpaying by 75 cents really that big of a deal? And that is only if you believe that Numismedia is correct on all prices (they aren't, no one is). Finding someone to sell an uncirculated silver coin for those prices shipped is not going to be a regular happening. With shipping costs and ebay/paypal fees you are really asking for someone to sell it to you at under melt value.

 

Lost another auction. Total would of been $5.75. I don't get it, I was doing a great job the past couple days, averaging $3.60 out the door, and now it's like every man and his dog wants a Roosevelt dime, the last 4 auctions they all went for over $4.50

 

Most folks that build a collection based on price only, are not happy with it at the end. Go for quality and forget such a tiny difference in price. It's also more fun that way.

 

I made this in open office.