I noticed the box shape at the top of the "8" and it appears to also have the diagonal line under the o's in the 8. I know it's low quality but is it the overdate?
I bet I see 2-3 of these at every show we setup at. People swearing up and down they see the overdate. Just to hard to determine in the conditions that these coins are in, especially when they are acid dated.
I don't doubt that. If this turns out to be what I hope it is, it will have been the third one I have acid dated. I believe there were more produced than is thought but very few survived. Still a good hole filler for someone who can't afford a >$1,000.00 coin. I really hate that they put a hole for this and the 1937-D 3 legged in the in the Dansco album. Dansco is really top quality but I don't think these two varieties belong in the regular set.
Ditto. Unfortunately, people often see what they want to instead of what is (or may be) there. The best advice I could give to the OP is to submit it if his confidence level supports doing so. ANACS will (or at least used to) certify acid dates IIRC.
Why not just email and ask? Also, you may want to contact John Wexler to see if he would take a look.
I do not see enough distinction to voice it is the overdate, so I would have to opinion no. Although I am not suggesting it occurred in this case, Nic-a-date is mainly ferric chloride, the stuff I and many others used to etch printed circuit boards in the olden days. One could use resist tape or a substance with the consistency of fingernail polish to cover the PCB circuitry and the ferric chloride wouldn't act there. It is very easy if one is treating a buffalo , and one sees at an early stage a 1918 D to artistically apply the resist gel or tape where the "7" remnants usually shows, continue to treat with the solution and when done, remove the gel/tape, and it will have a different color there, so treat the coin a little more to even up the color and "presto" a 1918/7 D ????~eBay Of course I have never done this myself. Jim
That is great information. I haven't thought of doing that (and I hope nobody does) but it is always helpful to know what to look out for. I'm the one who acid dated this coin and I'm in no hurry to get rid of it. Just looking for direction on the best way to get it authenticated on my budget. I'll contact CONECA and possibly John Wexler and see what they can possibly do for me before I send it in to ANACS. Thanks!
If the OP is still curious after 3 1/2 months, no harm in having someone look at it IMO. As for the rest, if a bunch of supposed acid "overdates" start popping up on ebay, I guess we know who to blame j/k
I suspect they are already on eBay.I see way more than I suspect should be there. I certainly didn't come up with the idea, I heard it about 40 + years ago. Jim
You have to ask yourself if you would pay overdate prices for that coin. I personally would not, but that is my take on it. I just want to relish a true overdate addition to my collection without having to convince myself that it is genuine. There are plenty of them out there, but the price has to be paid for a "recognized" specimen. Thanks for the photos. Takes me back a decade.
No problem, I knew you were kidding I had thought I put as smilie in, but I didn't. Anyway, I thought it was funny ! Jim
I don't think you can tell definitively from the photo either way, but I am really leaning towards no. The inner loops of the 8 just look too rounded, and what looks like the top of the seven does not look right. Just my opinion... Mike