Question about Grey Sheet Bid/Ask price.

OK, I am going to re-read the thread to get a better grasp, as you tell I am a newbie and have learned allot on this site, I see a few people referring to the grey sheet throughout this web site. I guess i will have to goggle it to find values on half dollar liberty depending on rare dates, conditions ect... the only thing as far as a common readable date was between 7.00 to 15.00 is that in the ball park or am I really off. thanks for negative or corrective criticisms you can give me.............

 

Log in or Sign up to hide this ad.

The fine print on all publications from the CDN

 

"I know there is a dealer mark but this coin is available and the dealer should be able to get it for you if they wanted to. Is this correct?"
Not necessarily.

It is correct only ​if an example of the coin is available for sale and your dealer actually knows where the example is.

​

 

Doug is right--on ordinary coins, the margins are tight. For toners, all bets are off in terms of bid/ask. Same goes for exceptionally nice coins, and a lot of CAC coins...book goes out the window, and it is supply and demand.

 

Grey sheet Red Book Coin World and prices are not etched in stone.but do give buyer + Sellers a baseline price
If auctioned it will sell for is basically is what the buyer's will pay.

 

I would agree that supply and demand play a part. I know I tried to sell a couple buffalo nickels at were worth a couple bucks. He wouldn't even buy them because they don't move at his PM shop. On the other hand, one of the guys that worked there pulled out the junk Barber halves to show me and used the gray sheet. I said "those are worth melt". He said, "they are worth what I say they are worth" and I simply told him to take them away. Maybe the gray sheet said that these common date, AG/G halves are worth more but most wouldn't pay that for them. On the other hand, I am sure people pay more than graysheet when there is a demand. I am wondering about what graysheet is for a very common, VF Barber dime. I bought one that was cleaned and took it back because people said I overpaid.

 

What would be the guide for a problem coin that sellers still want? For instance, many will still buy harshly cleaned pre-civil war coins because the issue is that many coins that old have been cleaned, noticeably or not. Even some cleaned coins make it into slabs without the details. But for 20th century coins, I'll pay spot for silver coins that were harshly cleaned. When I use that term I consider that to be trying to alter the coins surface and not remove grit and dirt with acetone, alcohol, or distilled water. I would think maybe downgrading the coin. If it was F/VF downgrade it to G.

 

They are all guides and meant to be used as such. The only true firm pricing is from auctions as those are true transactions. I have never heard Ask priced used for anything really as retail is much higher most of the time.

 

As I mentioned, I was buying coins at a PM shop and he was even using it on junk and problem coins in the bins. On the other hand, this shop is less expensive than this other shop I visited on everything so they all can't be using gray sheet on everything.

 

This is probably true but from what I seen it doesn't stop people from using it on it. I know this one guy pulled out a bunch of Barber halves from the junk bins with obvious problems and was consulting his gray sheet for prices. They were beat up and ugly.

 

I would widen that range to 10%-90%. I've seen quite a few NGC/PCGS body baggers at my local dealer that I'd gladly pay 90% of CDN for......then again, we both agreed the "problem" was manufactured at the TPG. LOL

On the flip side, I've seen many problem coins that I'd BARELY pay 10% of CDN for.....and that's only if I was extremely desparate! I really, really hate buying ANY coin with problems.