Capped Bust Experts - Need Overton Attribution Help

Discussion in 'US Coins Forum' started by kookoox10, Jul 17, 2012.

  1. kookoox10

    kookoox10 ANA #3168546

    So I was going through some coins I haven't touched in a while and came across this 1817. As far as I can see it's not an 1817/3, 1817/4, puctuated date or single leaf variety. I've tried comparing the photo references from coinzip to nail down the correct diagnostics. The only parts I can help identify with the use of a 20x glass, are the die crack at 12 o'clock going from the cap to the dentil. And the numbers in the date are spread apart more so than most other die pairings. The closest I think it might be is the 113a, it shares the same die crack but the other cracks are not there for me to comfortably designate it as such. Anyone have a clue as to what I have? Thanks for the help!
    1817CappedBust_opt.jpg
    1817CappedBustReverse_opt.jpg
     
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  3. Looks like an o.107 to me with the 4 obverse stars lining up to the milling. But I am no expert. Just a shlub with a book. :D
     
  4. kookoox10

    kookoox10 ANA #3168546

    Shlubs with books are pretty important to society. Which four stars were you eluding to? Thanks for the input Mr. LP
     
  5. mikem2000

    mikem2000 Lost Cause

    Log Potato is correct. O-107

    An R3.

    Mike
     
  6. S1, S7, S8 & S13...S1 is the first star on the lower left, and count clockwise.
     
  7. kookoox10

    kookoox10 ANA #3168546

    Looks good, thank you gentlemen for the info.
     
  8. mikem2000

    mikem2000 Lost Cause

    You are also not limited to using the 4 stars that are documented in the Overton Book. You can match up any of them. After you think you have the obverse nailed down, confirm it with the reverse. For the reverse I like to use the three A's and see where they point to on the milling. You can also use the E Pluribus Unum banner and see where that lines up with the lettering, especially the T in States with the I in Pluribus.

    Mike
     
  9. I use the base of the letters on the reverse as well as T-I as you stated, and F-N. I always look at the arrow spacing's, die cracks, etc. Anything that stands out.
     
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