Hello All, First I want to start by saying thank you to everyone on this site. Being a new comer can be an overwhelming feeling, but I have learned a tremendous amount from every one. Thank you for your patience with my questions. I was debating a specific collection to start with. I really like Peace dollars and Franklin halves. Being a teacher, the Franklin's lower prices especially appeal to me. Doing more research, I started to read about the designer of the Franklin half, John R. Sinnock. We have the same initials, JRS. So, I have decided to create a JRS collection. This will include Roosevelts, Franklins, and a couple of commemorative coins he designed. I do not know everything yet, but I am off. I am going to stay at or above MS-63. Any ideas, thoughts, or opinions? Is this ridiculous? Thanks, Justin
I believe that JRS also did the 1926 50 cent and $2.50 USA Sesquicentennial coins. You can see them in this thread: http://www.cointalk.com/t207642/
I think it is a great idea. I like the way you personalized it. Franklin halves are a great series and affordable as long as you do not go for high grade FBL. Enjoy! TC
A Franklin set is short, has few key dates, yet still has a bit of challenge. MS63 isn't a good grade for Franklins, many bagmarks and hits everywhere, some 64s are just as bad. For the non-key dates, circulation-strike Franklins can be found for under $30 in 64 and under $50 in 65 without Full Bell Lines. FBL will increase the price by 50% for most dates, however some dates are nearly non-existent in FBL (particularly the 1953-S). Most dates can be easily found in MS64 or MS65 FBL for a fair price except the ones minted at San Fransisco (poor quality), 1961 to 1963 from both Philadelphia and Denver (poor quality) and the 1949 D and 1953 P (low mintages). The grade and the FBL designation can be debated endlessly, so try to ignore it and focus on a clean, well struck example for each date. A good first coin would be a well struck example from 1948 (P or D) to understand how the design, the details and bell lines are supposed to look Proofs were struck at Philadelphia from 1950 until the end of the series in 1963. A proof set is shorter than a business strike set, however finding the 1950 and 1951 proofs will be quite difficult. Good grades for proofs would be PF66 and PF67. In 1956 the design of the small eagle on the reverse was changed, you may have one or both types in your collection; not a requirement. Full Bell Lines are ignored as nearly all were struck extremely well with full bell lines. A good online reference book can be found here: Are you purchasing coins raw or certified?
Roosevelts and Franklins...sounds like another collector I know. For Roosevelts I recommend the full torch set. I remember doing it as a teenager and something just crawled right under my skin when I saw a FT next to one that wasn't. That could be my obsessive tendencies though. As for FBLs I believe it to be all hype, but I am also working on a MS 63 or better as an upgraded set of AU/low MS from college. I wish you the best of luck and enjoy the search! Edit: As a side note Franklin Half varieties is another great way to bulk up the collection with the Bugs Bunnies, Type I, Type II reverses among other things.
Shrake, sounds like a great plan to me. In fact, this is the first time I have ever heard of collecting by Designer, and it seems like a fantastic idea.
Sounds fun, Franklin Halves are a good series to collect. As mentioned already, its a short series without a stopper key date. Roosevelt Dimes are good too, though its a larger series it still doesn't have that ultra hard key date that stops you. Good luck and enjoy.
Thank you for all of the feedback, photos and information. I am excited about this collection. I have my first couple of pieces... a NGC ms-63 1958-D Frank a PGCS PR-66 1963 Frank a PGCS PR-65 1961 Frank I was not planning on mixing MS and PR, and I am still not planning on it. But some of the Proofs were at an estate sale for $10 a piece. Couldn't pass it up. Which makes me wonder. Which do you all prefer? Seems to me (a novice) that Proofs are superior looking coins, but they do not get the premiums that MS coins do... any thoughts?
Awesome info. Thank you! To answer your question, I am planning on purchasing both. When I do purchase a raw coin, I plan on having it certified. I would like the Franklin portion of the collection to all be certified. I am heading to my first coin show tomorrow here in Orlando. I want to be flexible, yet armed with as much information as possible.
Shrake what do you think of toned franklins? Once you get the hang of telling between artificial toning/natural you will find a number of Franklins with outstanding coloring. You can simply type "toned Franklins" in the ebay search bar and find a number of raw toned Franklins for faily cheap.
Circulation strikes are harder to find in the higher grades. Proof coins are struck twice giving them sharper details, whereas, circulation strikes are stuck only once. Sometimes the details are okay, and sometimes the details are below average. Chris
I agree an excellent post by jcakcoin. Now, imagine having an entire BOOK of such great advice! This is why I advocate buying a good book on a series before you begin, to benefit from more advanced collectors knowledge.
Stumbled upon this thread doing a google search for Franklin half reference books, go figure. Thought I'd give it a bump since there is some good information in here, particularly jcak's post. Also, if you're still around shrake, how's the collection coming along?
