1913 T1 Buffalo Nickel for Type Set

Everyone was of such great assistance on my previous post about Flying Eagle Cents I figured I would put a few more coins out for comment. As I work through a few of the nickels for the type set, I am focusing on a 1913 T1 Buffalo Nickel. Not sure if there is really a comparison between these, but here we go... I have come across the following in the MS-62 to MS-64 range:

#1


#2


#3


If you have other options from a reputable dealer I will be more than willing to take a look..
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Here's something to keep in mind about the 1913 Type I buffalo nickels...

When they were first released, they were a huge hit with the public, so many people set back uncirculated bank rolls. For that reason, today we have large numbers of very nice ones. Many were stored for years in paper rolls, so we have a lot of lovely toned coins.

It's easy to find a truly premium piece without paying crazy money, so be patient and hold out for the right one.

 

It's hard to tell from photos and scans, but I'm not sure any of those three coins are uncirculated. In particular the first one seems to have very obvious rub. The third photo the coin almost looks more like an XF coin it's so flat.

 

I like the first one the best

 

Other things to consider about Buffalo 5c, especially 1913 type I...

Basically, they are high-relief coins. Perhaps not so much as the famous MCMVII high-relief Saint Gaudens, but compare a nice mint state 1913 Type I Buffalo to a "V" nickel and the difference is obvious and compelling.

High relief coins are great for artists, but tough on coiners. It's much tougher to strike up a high relief coin than a low relief one. With Buffalo nickels, we are always concerned about strike.

The coins in the photos are weakly struck. There are many places to check. On the obverse, check the word LIBERTY, particularly near the tops of the letters near the rim (weak in the OP coins), the ribs in the feathers (almost non-existent in the OP coins), hair detail, and the knot above the braid behind the chin, On the reverse, check the hair on the buffalo's shoulder and the horn. It's not too bad on the OP coins.

 

The other think to consider is this : recall the role President Roosevelt had in the renaissance of American coinage in the early 20th century. He knew this great nation deserved great coinage, and he demanded nothing short of excellence. The Saint-Gaudens $20 was the crowning glory, along with the Indian $10 (also designed by Saint-Gaudens), but the Buffalo 5c was part of the movement as well.

With that in mind, the Mint wanted to put their best foot forward on these new-fangled Buffalo 5c. In general, there are many well made, well struck coins, but high relief coins like these require more striking pressure so the dies wear out faster. That's too bad, because the popularity of these coins required the Mint to work overtime to meet the demand, so they often used worn-out dies after they should have been retired.

For these reasons, there is a great deal of variance in quality as made !

It's not only about preservation after the Mint, it's also about how well-made was it by the Mint.

The coins in the OP are weakly struck, possibly from worn dies.

 

I like the 2nd one but the overall look of the first one is also nice....

 

I think you should go with #1.

 

I have collected these Buffalo Nickel's all of my life and I'm sixty year old man now. I have been lucky enough to have bought many specimens long ago before they huge popularity came along but have also sold many I wish I still had. It's true that if ya wait the right 1913 type 1 one will come along but it all depends on how right you want em. The type 1 Buff is a VERY popular coin and many folks hold on to the good ones with the big luster and full strikes, not saying ya won't find one I'm just saying it may not be as easy as you might think lol....I still to this day purchase them if I like it and I have many 13 type 1's . I like the two your showing here, both have better than average detail especially the one one the bottom. It has a split tail and I think the head details are a bit stronger. The hip bone and flank will always be the first place you'll see any signs of rub but at the same time the hip bone and flank is also the last place to fill out when struck and this by itself make these coins very difficult to grade as most folks mistake this for rub if it's a bit flat.

Just for fun here is a couple of my 13 type 1's....

 

Oops!!!!

 

I like # 2 the best , that said I'd wait for a nicer struck coin . There's plenty of beautiful coins out there and the '13'-P Is very reasonably priced . My MS-66 was a little over $120 . There's some great 64s and 65s for a lot less money out there too .

 

Wow, I LOVE that second one you posted. Just amazing color and luster...

 

Thanks for the read!!! :thumb:

 

Wow, I LOVE that second one you posted. Just amazing color and luster...

Read more: http://www.cointalk.com/t207360/#ixzz1waWnXgIv

Thanks, it's an MS-67 CAC the others are ms-66...

 

Coin Dexter, are you referring to the #2 coin shown in my original post above?

900fine, Thanks for all the good info, that is exactly why I posted these here, to get an informed opinion and grow my knowledge.

For this coin in my type set I have set a dollar limit of $50. The #1 and #2 posted are at that number, while #3 is $42. I liked the look of #1 myself. A few have said that #2 is their preference. I will still be searching for some competitors to these at the $50 level.

 

I'd prefer coin #2, but really, I'd wait for a better example.

You're not going to get coins like those posted by coin dexter in your price range, but you should be able to find a significantly nicer example than the two you posted. Like the 1883 n/c nickel, this is not an uncommon coin and it is one you can afford to be patient with.

Pee yellow and light blue are the most common color for these coins. Rainbows, like the superb example posted above, are much rarer.

I would wait for one that is very well struck and very eye appealing to you, and try and be patient in so doing. It will pay off in the long run.

Hope this helps....Mike

 

Yup, that's the one I'm talking about. I like them both at that price of $50.00. I remember back about a year or so ago I purchased a 1913 type 1 for $62.00 this coin was so pretty & well struck I thought it was a proof. There are deals to be had out there bud. Good luck....

 

I picked up this one for my US Type set. It was in a MS-65 NGC slab. I think I gave about $100 for it.

 

I forgot a pic of my 1913 .