I would like to get an opinion on what this 1939 S is worth. I am unable to capsure the front in a small enough format to post here, but it is in same great shape as the reverse shown.Thank you
Jay welcome to CT. There is no way to give you an opinion on grade/value without a picture of the obverse, and better images overall. There is no way to distinguish between the grades with your current pic. When that much light is reflecting on the surface, it completely hides any scratches, dings, damage and things like that.
When I enlarge it all the way it looks like full steps on the reverse, with a nice surface. Lots of glare though.
Tough to grade from that image. Looks to be FS with the reverse of 1940. In 65 or better it's worth sending in for grading. If you get better pics, please post them.
I am resending them, I dont know how to do it on this thread so I will list again under same title #2.Thanks
By the time Red Book, or any other guide is on the store shelves, the prices are outdated already. This is common with most guides that come out annually. Grey Sheet would be more accurate as it comes out regularly during the year.
Here we go again... I'd be very interested to hear your take on how accurate the CDN is with the Jefferson series as a whole. Why not grab your monthly sup and list current values so the OP can compare instead of knocking someone else simply trying to help.
CC the bigger issue with red book is that the prices aren't so much a price guide but kind of a futures guide. It tells where the coin is predicted to be valued in the future. Unfortunately no one can predict demand of collectors. Statehood quarters for example in MS-65 were valued at $5 in red book yet you could walk into any brick and motar store or even get them from national online dealers (NOT Littleton type places) for alot less usually .75 to 1.50. Same side of things just because a 1909Svdb is said by red book to be somewhere around 1600 in MS60 a buyer who really wants or need the coin may pay 1800 or 2K. The point bu and desmith's point are also valid as it takes months for a writer to amass the price info, then submit it to a publisher and then months for the publisher to publish millions of copies and then it may sit until the release date. So you are at least 6 months removed from the authors stats. That's why the CDN is more accepted because the main part comes out every week and the quarterly parts come out every other month plus a every month suppliment. Now most non rare "current" issues such as common date and mint mark wheat cents, non silver quarters, nickels things of that nature won't change much at all unless there is a sudden high demand from collectors the CDN info doesn't change as often as you'd think. I personally only buy the recent CDN packs once a quarter. As long as you can calculate rising metals costs properly to make the adjustments yourself you can save alot of money from a yearly CDN membership. Remember even dealers don't change their prices that regularily mine in chicago don't unless it's like a 5-10% jump up or down excluding silver, gold and platinum as those change on a daily basis. Type coins are another one where there aren't that many around or series where there may be a month of hot interest and then it may cool down again for 6 months. Most average collectors can use monthly price guides and deduct 20-50% off their assumptions depending on series. Moderns like the state quarters, 2009 cents, etc. take about 70% off what the red books and monthly mags say.
While the RB may not be the best price guide, it surely is dead on with price differences. If a coin suddenly skyrockets from AU-50 to MS-63, that would indicate a lower survival rate in MS Grades.
Completed sales of realized auctions, online, are more accurate than any price guide printed annually. Even Grey Sheet would be better than the book guides as at least the GS comes out quite regularly during the year.
