Question relate to study the graded coins...

In my opinion, there is no book or online resource that will teach you how to grade like the TPGs do. The only way to get that skill is to look at lots and lots and lots of graded coins in-hand. Looking at pictures and trying to grade is difficult enough, trying to learn grading from pictures is an exercise in futility, IMO.

 

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GDJMSP: You are correct as one side view will not help me to grade those coins correctly and my analysis was a proof. However, based on average, I did got MS64. I understand that ANA book can give me better understand, but what it's missing is accurate grading for MS 66, 68 and 69. I did check some feedback in google. Most of them said "It will be MS 66 if it's better than as describe for MS65, but less than as describe for MS67. It's like a guessing game. That's why I want to get different graded coins to determine the different between MS65, 66, 67 to 70. I am sure MS70 is easy to determine, but what about MS68 and MS69. Since coins slabbed with graded in my hand give me better point of view than looking at the scanned picture. IMO. Thank you for sharing that point of view. Last question, what does GDJMSP stand for?

geekpryde: Thank you for sharing image of chart with low and high demands. Also the link to website with both image of slabbed coins. It does help.

For everyone who mention regarding "Series". What does it based on? Does it based on date, denomination or person's name?

 

Series is a group of coins minted of the same general type. Basically series is another word for Type, if Type is not too tightly constrained, (added word, etc not considered a different series).

 

I generally agree Doug, but would say that, especially for circulated grades, once you truly learn to grade coins IDC what coin it is, its gradable by you. Many people here, including you and I, can pick up a circulate world coin we have never seen before and give it a proper grade. So its a valid point that you need to see thousands of coins to be able to grade, I just think for lower grades most do not need to see 1000 of that type in order to give it a competent grade.

Point is, learn to grade one series REALLY well. That knowledge will transfer for the most part to other series. You do not have to learn it all over again.

 

I was willing to bet that those Morgans were all 64s, I figured you were going to prove a point with that. Point well token Doug.

My problem with trying to determine a grade before sending in a coin is that TPGs have over the years changed the standards. I mentioned on an earlier thread that I often have to crack out a coin and get it regraded before I go to sell or trade it. The vast majority of my graded coins are in the old PCGS rattlers. I have had coin come back up three points.

I would add to all of the earlier posts that you should compare coins of the current style slabs to make the best determination of grade.

 

Thank you everyone for share your perspective on improve our understand on grading coins. It help! By the way, I assume your name is Doug as everyone calling you. (GDJMSP) I missed the beginner pages in ANA Grading Standards. Details in each number mention in page 24-27. It's all there and I guess I was exciting and jump into specific coins instead of read first few pages. That's me, but thank you for point it out.

I just send 26 coins to NGC. They are the "best of the best", but I will see the outcome when I get the coins return from NGC within three weeks or so. (It's 12 days service) I didn't guess the grade and send them to have hope, but really look through my grandpa's coins using 10X magnify. The highlight in that lot is IKE 1976 Type 1 with toned and very few noticeable scratch through 10X magnify. (It's from 1975 mint set) Another coin that may consider get higher grade is 1964 Kennedy Half Dollar Proof. I can't find any scratch or imperfect through 10X Magnify, but of course it's all matter of hairline to fetch higher grade. I will post new thread when I get them in my hand and of course I will scan them.

 

You jumped into submitting coins with 26 coins?

 

Yep, is something wrong with that?

 

Of course not, just surprised that you started so large given that you are so new to grading.

 

I am not expert in grading the coins, yet. (As most of people here mention that we have to included experience in grading more than 20 years to understand it.) However, I can see the different between the best to so-so. Basically, 26 coins that I send is really very sharp with less or no marks or defects. I am expert in grading comic books as I have been into comic books for over 22 years. The concept of finding the best one isn't hard. After tons of coins by my grandpa, only 26 coins that pass my perspective on cleanest coin that I see by using 10X magnify. The original question in this thread is helping me understand the different grades. I want to able to identify what's different between MS 65 and 66. For comic books, I already understand different between 9.0 to 10.0 as I can detect the different between 9.4 and 9.6. It's matter of learning new things.

 

Ok then.

I would simply recommend sir that you go to a large show and simply spend the entire day looking. Go to a site like Heritage and simply look at coins for a day.

Saying its simple to grade coins is true and not true at the same time. Its simple for me, its simple for Doug, but we have been doing it forever. Every coin is unique, every circumstance different. You mention you used a 10x loupe, that is a mistake. 5x or even a 3x is the MOST you ever use to grade. Higher is only useful for identifying fakes, overdates, etc. You say you saw few marks, but was the coin cleaned? Was it whizzed? Those are much larger, game changing issues than a mark under 10x magnification.

Good luck with coins sir. I am not trying to discourage you, just put it in perspective. My favorite recommendation for a beginner is to go buy one or two bags of cents or nickels from the bank, opn up your ANA grading book, and grade them. Put them in piles, (g, vg, f, etc). When you are done, examine each pile and see if you were consistent. When you are finished, send them back to the bank. You just had a massive coin grading lesson for free. You might even find a few good ones.

 

I agree to face the reality of disappointment. I have gone through with comic books by submit them to CGC (Comic books grading service). I did thought I have best grade comic books but I got them less than expect. I do expect from coins as well. However, I am very picky on quality as well. Those 26 coins are really nice under 10X.

Doug: I like surprises, but I can expecting a disappointment. I am looking forward to get them and understand them better.

medoraman: Yes, I know the standard magnify using by grading company at 3X to 5X. Suppose I found best coins in 10X, I can assurance that it's the best coin. Agree? Also, 26 coins is my first test to see how I did as I do have more coins sitting around that have same potential as 26 coins that I send. However the exact coins that has been send out is 28, but I say 26 because my dad keep pushing me to send two American Eagle Dollar. I did check both of them and they will not get MS70/PR70 as I detect one or two tiny imperfect through 10X, but my dad want it to be grade despite the outcome. When I post new thread after I got the coins, you will see 28 coins. I am looking forward to it.

Last, I did send another 20 coins to ANACS about two weeks ago. Half of them are Morgan Dollars, but all of them contained error included VAM, double die, etc. I am not looking for higher grade on them, but verify on VAM and errors. ANACS have better price on service than PCGS and NGC. It should be ready by May 23 or so. By end of May should be fun week for me.

 

The only danger sir I see is not seeing the forest for the trees by using too high of magnification. Overly magnify a coin and you can miss tell tale signs of cleaning, whizzing, and other things because you are too tightly focused. Unless someone has very poor eyesight, and needs the extra magnification, I would simply say to use the least amount of magnification possible to grade. Myself, I have extraordinary near vision, (being very near sighted), so never used a loupe at all until the 40's got me and now I use a 3x loupe sometimes.

Good luck with your submission!

 

That's what I am trying to learn regarding to magnify. I can see coins clear without magnify, but the question is what will grader see? Also, I can see whizzed, cleaning through 10X. You can see thin lines in Morgans to detected that it has been cleaned. ANACS will confirm on that one. All coins send to NGC come from mint sets, rolls and individual holder. It's hard to find cleaned coins from jars, bags and boxes.

 

From what I understand, MS67 to MS70 require to inspect with magnify. I guess if they see no flaw without magnify then they will process using magnify to determine which grade it will land on?