I'm two years new to this, I'll admit... but where in the world would you find a coin like this for $12.08? even $13 or $14? (not including a 1 in 1000 win on an ebay auction)
Hi 19Lyds nice to here from you. I will answer this question first. I askers the seller to find me the exact coin in the photo, it took a few days but he did find it in his stock. Mike said and I quote "Look around the obverse rim at around 10 o'clock and 2 o'clock. There a black toning that would have been removed by a dip". When I saw the coin, like Mike, that was the first thing I saw and as I told the seller, it was a way to identify the coin. I am no expert on this coin or many others either. So that is how I would be able to tell, and the only way. I also know the seller but not well, and he came highly by a friend who is very knowable on this and many other coins. As fare as people calling it a "Killer Deal" I am not sure why. Maybe they are trying to make me feel good about the very good price I got, and I really am happy that they feel that way. I am a new collector, and I am still looking at coins with that excitement and wonder a new collectors get when they start the hobby. But most of all I trust the seller to keep his word, and send me the coin I want. I may be a new collector but I am plenty old enough to trust the feelings I get when buying a coin or anything for that matter from someone I barely know. So that is the best and the most honest way I can answer your question. All the best Alan Read more: http://www.cointalk.com/t200698-2/#ixzz1mTjerAGC
It's not really that difficult. They are all over eBay at similar prices and entire original 1961 proof sets can be had for around $20-25 or sometimes less.
If the coin is not the one I wanted in the pic, I will still have a great coin and at a great price. But most of all I will know that I was wrong to trust this seller. He will be the only loser in the deal if he does not send the coin I wanted to buy from him. I am sure the sale of an $18.00 coin it is not worth to him loosing a good customer. 19Lyds I know you mean well and I thank you for that, but I have to make mistakes sometimes to learn about coin collection. I promise I will show the coin I receive so everyone can be the judge. All the best Alan
Hey, if Mike says it's not dipped than it isn't. Nice Franklin Alan. Just glad that others out there appreciate this series. I went to a local coinclub meeting and met a seasoned collector with an album full of Franklins. Always nice to bump into somone with similar interest.
Hi Mike Thanks that would be fun, as I have now decided to start a collection and put them in an album. Take care my friend Alan
be careful of the albums that you use. If paper touches your coins they will tone. Proofs are such lovely coins it is a shame when they tone unattractively
$16 is slightly more than melt. What he paid is a fair price but not a value shattering deal and it's also for a raw, uncertified proof. My 1961 Franklin proof is an PCGS certified PR65 and I was able to pick it up for $18.50. The PCGS/Numismedia price guide lists the value at $25, and I've seen these anywhere between $18-$30.
I think what Lyds is trying to get you to see, is that this didn't cost you all that much. What happens when you come across one of the key date Franklins that have a much higher price tag? That lesson would be more expensive for you to learn from than this one. When it comes to purchasing coins from online sources, it's sometimes better to purchase certified examples from PCGS or NGC. You know you're getting the exact coin in the photo because you'll have the cert# for it. For the price you paid, it is a nice proof and I hope you get what you're expecting.
Yes... because it makes fiscal sense to buy slabbed coins that have a value of 18 dollars. Actually, once you get a PCGS membership you should pay the 30 dollar submission fee to have these PR's cert. (*friendly elbow jab).
JCB, I don't think that he's advocating sending in $18 coins for certification but rather to buy certified coins that are $18.
I don't waste my time, or money, submitting coins to either TPG. My thought is, my collection is just that to me, a collection. I don't add to it for flipping, or hoping and praying that something modern gets a 70 on the label, as I am not concerned with fractional grading at all. I don't collect for investment purposes but for enjoyment of the collection and what I've added to it. Do I buy certified coins? Sure I do. If I can't find what I'm looking for raw, I buy slabbed. Slabs are cracked open, and the coin removed and placed in a 2x2 for the binder. Just my preference.
If I was trying to conserve the flashy white color I would probably consider air-tites. Or if an album appeals most there are albums that are made of inert materials called Intercept Shield. One important point to remember: Where you store your inert album or air-tites will make a difference. Just try to keep them in a temperature and humidity controlled environment and away from wooden boxes and paper in general.
Hi I trust Lyds to post a fair and helpful comment, so believe me I do listen to him, he has a very good knowledge of coins and I understand he has "My best interest at heart". He has helped me before. As fare as the price goes, I know I did not pay a lot for the coin. If it were an expensive coin believe me, I would be asking everyone I could for advice first. LOL Please don't take me wrong I do have a very nice collection of several different coins all slabbed and all PR69 or higher. So I thank you as well for good sound and friendly advice All the Best Alan
Thanks Mike I forgot all about air-tites, OK so Iam getting old and forgetful. LOL I did not know that albums were being made from Intercept Shield. The only time I have researched that was for a sample slab. Thanks Mike, say Hey to Matt for me will ya. All the best Alan
I know I know LOL. I wanted to start my first raw coin collection. I don't want them slabbed. Thank you my friend As always your advice is sound and helpful. All the best Alan