Is a scale the best way to find out if a coin is real? If so which kind of scale would you recommend?
No, a scale is just only one way to find out the genuinity of a coin. Some really expensive coins are often made in such high quality that mass alone does not cut the test.
A scale is probably the most important tool you could own, when it comes to authenticating coins, especially if you are not intimately familiar with any given series' die varieties, die combinations, edge varieties etc. Modern digital scales, which are commonly called "jeweler's scales", weigh to the 1/000 gram. They aren't cheap, but you can get pocket models for an affordable price.
No, the best way is constant study of the series in question so that you can recognize the fakes by sight.
Scales, calipers, refrences, loops, magnifying glasses, microscopes, tensor lighting, it all is indispensable
Scales and calipers are what I call "one-way" tools. When a planchet is the wrong weight (under or over) or the wrong size (also under or over), you know you have a fake. When it is the right weight and size, you have a coin that may be genuine, but further tests and examination are needed.
Looks like I need to invest in a pair of calipers and a good scale. Any recommendations? Thanks Again!
There are also some good books about detecting counterfeits. I have Bill Fivaz's Counterfeit Detection Guide. It has pictures of 22 frequently counterfeited coins, and it shows the the diagnostics of genuine ones. Charlie
Agreed. A very accurate scale is nice to have but no big thing. You must remember that as a coin wears, it looses material and that means loss of weight. Weighing a 1914D Lincoln would accomplish very little as to figuring out if a fake or not. Most are made by removing part of a 4 to change from 44 to 14. Any weight loss could be attributed to overall wear of the coin. A scale would be helpful in determining the difference between the different 1982 Lincolns though. However, the cheapest balance scale could do that or just an ice cream bar stick balanced over a pencil. Many years ago I purchased several really accurate scales but not for coins. I've never used them for coins yet except for the 1982 Lincolns. Nice way to accumulate products for checking out coins but unless your going into the buisness, I suggest using the money to buy a coin.
I'm actually astonished that no one has bothered to mention the issues of using a scale. The only real benefit is assuming the coin is machine made, not hand cut, or crude machinery. So if you are planning to use for coins older than 1800s, you can expect a fair amount of discrepency. There is no honest clear cut single factor that will determine a coin's genuity. Indeed, what is highly recommanded if you are interested in the field, STUDY IT!!! Else, you can always take it to a dealer and ask for his opinion.
Don't know that I would completely agree with that gx. Even going back to the 1300's and before, the weight of a gold or silver coin was highly regulated to very close tolerances as was the fineness of the metal. The penalty for debasing the fineness or producing underweight coins was death, so they tended to take it rather seriously. And I have found the weight of older coins, even 700 - 800 years old, to be quite consistent.
Is it Real??? Thanks for all the help, I weighed several coins last night. Most were within 0.1 to 0.3 grams of coin weight listed in the red book. Does this sound about right? I know I'll still have to do more to verify, but thought this would be a place to start. Again, many thanks......
I agree partially with that. Weight is no way to prove fake or real since wear reduces the coins weight. Only a perfect unused coin would weigh the same as when made. As to taking a coin to a dealer. Got to remember that unless you know the dealer you may as well ask a used car salesman for his opinion. GDJMSP is correct as to the tight controls of coin manufacturing weight, however, wear eleiminates that as a factor for determining realism. Of course I've got a few fake coins in my collection that were made with lead and talk about weight differences. Didn't need a scale for those.
Again I think iit depends on what country one is studying. Perhaps in the more developed European nations, they might have established a strict control over such weight issues on precious metals, especially gold - although I am not too sure about copper coinages. In the times of 1700s Russian copper hockey puck coins, they supposely are to weight around 50grams but from what I have seen, they can be from 35-75grams!!!
It depends on the coin - general rule of thumb for US coins, if it's off by more than 1% either direction then you have a problem. Carl - as for wear affecting the weight, yes it does. But to a very minor degree unless the coin is very badly worn. For instance a silver dollar weighs 26.73 grams or 412.44 grains. 1% of that is 4.12 grains - that is the normal plus or minus tolerance. So the range is 408.32 to 416.56 grains or 26.46 to 26.99 grams. So you have 16 grains or 1/2 gram for variance even for Mint State silver dollars. But find yourself any VF silver dollar, weigh it. You will find it is still within that tolerance range. Even a G silver dollar will be off weight less than 20 grains.
this is because circulation doesn't wear metal off of the coin it mostly just moves it around. (except for coins below good).
