I know I've seen this topic somewhere, but cannot find it. My formula is 50% of G4, regardless if a G4 or an XF45. I made an impulse buy last night that appears holed. If I'm terribly dissapointed I could always return it as SNAD since it is described as silver, & a liberty cap. Closer inspection reveals that it looks "Nearly" holed on the obverse. Either way, a decent (& my first) half cent. http://www.ebay.com/itm/280804039928?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
Well, it's still a LOT better than this one, and a little less expensive: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1807-USA-CE...62?pt=Coins_US_Individual&hash=item3cc0a1eece
Coins have varied degrees of damage ranging from a light scratch on the field, light corrosion, holed, up to a severe device gouge. The latter often considered fatal unless the population/rarity dictates a market(like a 1793 chain cent).
Do you actually mean; Value of base metal, not price of coin, in your equation? I think that would be a good determination.
It's pretty subjective actually. Say you have coin with a population of about 400 known, & F12 is the finest known example. Would then your "barely visible cull with a hole" be an XF45 to someone who collects that series?
i value damaged coins as follows holed- melt or half of g-4 scratched- 50% of price of current grade rim ding- 75 of price in current grade corroded- usually wont buy them but if its less than half the price of g-4 im in cleaned- dont buy cleaned coins but if silver id buy it at melt just my .02 cody
Cody, there was a time when toning was considered corrosion & 75+ percent of all collector coins were periodically cleaned or dipped. A better statement would be to say you try to stay away of harshly cleaned coins.
