http://www.ebay.com/itm/25-CARDBOAR...ultDomain_0&hash=item5d31e68e8b#ht_1008wt_956 Basically I would put various silver coins and small fractional silver bars so my biggest question is how safe are these?
The biggest drawback is that the mylar offers no protection for the coin. That is why, if you choose to use them, that you should also use a flat-cinch stapler. Chris
Mylar will not harm a coin. You can use a pair of pliers to flatten a staple so it won't stick out. Or you can superglue the holders shut. That is not a good price...take a look here:http://www.ebay.com/itm/100-TOP-QUA...ltDomain_0&hash=item19c36ae246#ht_1446wt_1037
I personally would not put super glue anywhere close to a coin. The vapors can bind to finger prints etc.
Should be safe, if you want to go one step better maybe air tites would do. Just make sure the Mylar is free of loose chipboard before you staple it.
The mylar that contacts the coin is safe as long as unbroken. If you use regular staples, they can rust over a decade or so and cause chemical reaction to the coin since they penetrate the mylar. Personally I use the mylar flips, and if long term enough I electronically seal them. The recommendation to use proper pliers is good and also consider stainless steel staples.
yeah, those look like fairly standard coin storage supplies. As for price, I get them from the local shop 20 for $1 or 100 for $4. I use a regular stapler with regular staples. Staple close to the hole where the coin goes, but not too close.
Can you please expand on "electronically seal"? I use regular staples for my mylar flips and am curious about a better method. Thanks.
This is the one I use: http://www.amazon.com/Impulse-Manua...OB8U/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1326428790&sr=8-5 It is 8", but I use it for other bag sealing also. The adjustment knob on the front sets the time of the impulse, and a mylar flip is different than a chip bag. But once you find the adjustment that completely seals , but doesn't cut through, just mark it for future use. They also have a 4" model for less. The little hand sealers don't work very well IMO. Jim I like it because if I send a coin on approval or from an ebay sale, it can't be removed without being noticeable.
Wait, so do you seal the whole 2x2 in plastic or does it kind of work through the paper part and seal the mylar beneath?
I use either Airtites or Intercept Shield holders for my silver coins, and so far, no toning. :smile TC
Sorry, I didn't explain completely. I was saying that I use a mylar flip that was entirely mylar or a non-vinyl composition ( no cardboard) such as these http://www.coinsupplyexpress.com/SF2P-Supersafe-sku-4968.aspx sorry for the confusion.
The heat-sealer is a very interesting idea. Are you completely confident that it will never get hot enough to decompose the plastic, producing reactive contaminants?
I am convinced it is as safe or safer than similar "melt sealing" of the thicker plastic slabs used by TPG companies. The heat originates from the outside when the arm is lowered and activated. If the heat is too high, it would completely cut through, thus the adjustment knob to just melt/fuse rather than cut. I believe the melt temperature of Mylar is about 250 C, and decomposition is above 300C, and even them I think one would find that the decomposition products would be inert to metal. IMO, of course.
Ah ok, got it. I prefer to use the paper ones with mylar inside. This way I can write up info about the coin on the flip and still display both sides. I have the all mylar BCW brand flips which come with blank cards, but using the card hides one side of the coin. Thanks for the explanation Jim. =)
