Trying to find some TPG material.

Discussion in 'US Coins Forum' started by Detecto92, Dec 28, 2011.

  1. Detecto92

    Detecto92 Well-Known Member

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  3. Crusoe

    Crusoe Numismatist

    I see hairlines on the first, the second has a fair size scratch on the obverse and looks cleaned and retoned, the third has an old cleaning, but is coming back, the rim at the 7 O'clock worries me though, and the last has a rim ding at the 7 O'clock as well as some chatter on the rim on the reverse.
    My suggestion would be if you want a certified coin, buy one certified.
     
  4. Detecto92

    Detecto92 Well-Known Member

    I think that is going to become the case. I'm having issues finding nice coins in the raw that are not a whole bunch over redbook.
     
  5. fiddlehead

    fiddlehead Well-Known Member

    There doesn't seem to be much advantage to having common date liberty halves certified - based on what they are listed for on Ebay. There aren't many - most of the certified halves are either very high grades or key dates or both.
     
  6. Detecto92

    Detecto92 Well-Known Member

  7. GDJMSP

    GDJMSP Numismatist Moderator

    Most numismatic experts estimate that 80% or more of all, older, raw coins are problem coins. That means they won't slab to begin with, unless you want them in Genuine or Details slabs.

    Is there some particular reason that you are searching for coins to submit to the TPGs ?
     
  8. Detecto92

    Detecto92 Well-Known Member

    Going to join the NGC in the Spring. Want to find a few nice coins to have slabbed.

    Anyway, does the surface of this look right?
    http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...item45ff9fe8e5&autorefresh=true#ht_500wt_1054
     
  9. GDJMSP

    GDJMSP Numismatist Moderator

  10. GDJMSP

    GDJMSP Numismatist Moderator

    If you want to find some problem free coins to have graded then you really need to start working with some good dealers. Let them do the leg work for you. There are very few problem free coins out there,and you're not likely to find them on ebay.
     
  11. cpm9ball

    cpm9ball CANNOT RE-MEMBER

    For one thing, you should be able to find some nice coins below Red Book prices. Like Doug said, you should find a dealer in your area to work with you.

    Since you haven't already joined NGC, you've got plenty of time (12 months from the join date), and you should use that time to the fullest instead of frantically searching for something, anything, to submit.

    I've been a member of the NGC forums for about 7 years, and in that time, there have been many new members who became so disgusted that their first submissions came back in Details holders (formerly body-bags) that many of them never returned.

    So, take your time. Do like Doug suggested and find a local dealer to work with you, but don't pay Red Book prices for any coin. You might want to get a copy of the CDN Greysheet which quotes dealer-to-dealer "bid" & "ask" prices which are below the "full retail" of the Red Book. I can usually buy most any coin I want somewhere between bid & ask.

    Chris
     
  12. Leadfoot

    Leadfoot there is no spoon

    The problem as I see it, G, is our OP doesn't have the ability to tell a good dealer from a bad dealer, and he's much more likely to run into the latter than the former. No disrespect meant to Detecto, but I think his likelihood of finding a raw, slabable coin in a dealer's case is pretty low,and probably lower than than finding one in eBay -- provided he has the requisite skill....

    Frankly, I think he needs to work on his OWN skill before depending on anyone. Trust is not something to be given away freely in the coin game, unless being taken advantage of is your goal.

    IMO of course...Mike
     
  13. Treashunt

    Treashunt The Other Frank

    #1: Looks like something was removed from the field on the right side.
    2) Looks polished & retoning.
    3) Nice, looks original.
    4) Too many rim dings.
    5) 1859 O, something strange there.
     
  14. GDJMSP

    GDJMSP Numismatist Moderator


    I don't disagree Mike. But even someone who is just barely beginning coin collecting can be directed to trustworthy dealers by people like you, me, and some other members of this forum. To me, any time you can get 5 or 6 good recommendations from people who at least seem to know what they are doing and have a good reputation themselves, that's enough to start. That's enough to give a recommended dealer a try at least.

    Now I know you even though I've never met you in person. I've known you for years, just like you've known me for years. And I have enough faith in your judgement that if you told me dealer so and so was a respectable guy - that's all I'd need to do business with the the guy. But I would of course require a good return policy, I require that of anybody.

    Back when I was working, the way I used to put it is this - if I recommend a dealer to somebody and that dealer screws you over, then I'll stand behind that purchase myself. I'd pay for it in other words. That's how much faith I put in the people I recommend. And I won't recommend them unless I feel that way.

    Granted, yes I believe the OP needs to learn and study. Everybody needs to learn and study. After over 50 years I am still learning and studying every single day. That will never change for me. But the OP can still be set in the right direction by recommending some reputable dealers to him.
     
  15. Leadfoot

    Leadfoot there is no spoon

    I think we see eye to eye, bud. Just wanted to be sure Detecto wasn't left for the wolves, so to speak. :)

    Seeing your comments above (and in the other thread), I think we have him headed in the right direction.

    The last thing I want to add to this is that even the best dealers have "mistake" coins in their cases, and education and self-reliance is the only way to avoid them, so while pointing him in the right direction will help immensely, it doesn't mitigate all the risk.
     
  16. GDJMSP

    GDJMSP Numismatist Moderator

    Granted ;)
     
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