Please tell me what you think. Pictures are taken thru a plastic holder....My bad!! Type: Franklin Half Year: 1959 Mint Mark: () Phil This coin is in brilliant condition with no contact marks on face edge or rim. The coin has a brilliant color, mirror like finish and no toning. There are no discernable fingerprints or other signs of oxidation. The coin does not appear to have been cleaned or dipped. ***** Is this an uncirculated or is this a proof coin? ***** What do you think this would grade if submitted for certification? ***** What do you think the value of this coin would be if uncertified? If Certified by ANACS or PCGS? Thank you for your expert advice
Definitely looks like a proof coin. Certified or uncertified, the value is determined of who is willing to pay and what to pay for it. Book value puts this if it's PF65 at about $20 bucks. The uncirculated (non-proof) MS quality Franklin halves are in a higher demand, less of them in such quality and a MS65 uncirculated would go for about $60-$80 bucks. Honestly, if it's a proof, I wouldn't bother spending the money to get the coin certified, it could cost the amount or more than the actual value of the coin. You could easily spend over $20 but even certified, could get $20 out of it if you plan to sell.
it looks proof to me as well, as rodeo said it isnt worth sending it in. unless the coin has sentimental value then you may want to send it in to preserve it in a nice holder.
That's a proof, 63 or 64 if I had to guess. Pretty common, I wouldn't waste money on submitting it to a TPG.
And 63 - 65 are common grades on them. Now if it were to grade say a 67 + DCAM that would be worth it.
Thank you for your advice and input. I purchased this several weeks ago at a truck stop in Utah. I normally do not purchase coins, certainly not at a truck stop, but the driver was an independent and he needed the fuel. I gave him $100 for 10 of them and thought I made a reasonable deal. That was until this week and I have watched the price of silver LMAO. Wish I had met him today. I am cetainly happy with my purchase and I hope the driver made it home....... My next question is.....Exactly how can you make a determination between a weak proof and an exeptional UNK coin. With most issues, it is a no brainer. But how about a coin like this? Maybe I can carry them around in my pocket and spill my beer on them for a few weeks and make them worth more. Your thoughts wouls be appreciated Cactus Dude
Proof is a method of manufacture, not a condition. Once a Proof always a Proof. You cannot change a coin from Proof to Uncirculated. If you carry your Proof coin around in your pocket for a while and further abuse it as you describe what you will end up with is an Impaired Proof. It sounds like you bought your coins for less than melt so why not just be happy with them as are they are?
My 2cents Nice Proof 1959 Franklin. I would wait Anacs has a 10-for $10.00 & free S/H deal.plus on this 59 I would ask for details,you never know when on a Proof you will find a DDO or DDR.
Not a bad deal on 10 proofs. The 59 proofs are worth about $22.50, the melt is $10.51, a dealer would offer you about $7 - $7.50 each.
Differentiating between Proof and UNK My statement about spilling beer or letting these beauties jingle in my pocket was meant as a joke. Ironically they are my birth year and that makes them special to me. I am really quite pleased them. They were all in flimsy flips but have mirror like finish, no distracting marks or prints, so I could not bring myself to even hold one in my bare hands, "wanted to though! (*_^) " I transferred them to poly plastic holders. Maybe you could elaborate a little more on:Exactly how can you make a determination between a weak proof and an exceptional UNK coin? With most issues it is a no brainer. But how about a coin like this? I do understand the difference in processing and handling of modern proofs, mint state and business strike coins. I have several 57D's which look very similar if not quite as mirror like. What if any are other indicators you would use to differentiate between weak proof and exceptional UNK coin. "To know something is worth 2 cents. To learn something is golden"
I'm not sure what you mean by "a coin like this"? What is so unusual about your coin? It looks like a normal Proof Franklin Half to me. To answer your question, the methods of manufacture of Business Strike coins and Proof coins are very different in a few ways. The planchets for Proof coins are polished before being struck. Planchets for Business Strikes are not polished. The dies for Proof coins are highly polished and are removed from the coin press to be polished after striking a certain number of coins. Dies for Business Strikes are not polished to the degree nor as often as dies for Proof coins. Proof coins are struck at least twice. Business Strike coins are struck only once. A Proof coin should be fully struck up so all details of the coin are present. The rim of a Proof coin will be full and flat and the edge will be square and sharp. Business Strike coins may not be fully struck up and the edges are usually rounded. Hope that helps.
Something to keep in mind when you're shopping for proof Franklins is to watch for cameo types. This is when the raised devices/features exhibit a frosty appearance. They don't come up that often but for high end examples they go for hundreds of dollars graded.
I had a bunch of graded Franklins like this and was going nowhere on ebay with them I sold about 10 of these later dates to my dealer for scrap price. He said he was going to crack them open and put them in his junk silver bucket.
Most proof Franklins are struck fairly well so I don't think that would be the criteria you would use to determine whether your coin has any additional value outside of the silver it is made of. What you ideally want for a common coin like a '59 is something special about it. And that something special is deep cameo finish (DCAM) in which Franklin is all frosty and against the fields gives it a black and white look. This would be a great thing to have. However, my experience is that any proof coins that are no longer in their original holders will have far to many tiny ticks and rubs to be of the high quality needed to obtain top grades, especially if it were ever placed in a "roll". I see rolls of proofs being sold on ebay all the time and for the life of me, I don't know why anyone would do that to a proof coin...but I digress. As far as your Franklins, I would consider your purchase as a nice way to invest in silver. I think both you and the seller got a fair deal, as you can buy 1959 proof sets at melt which is approximately where you purchased yours. And anyway you look at it, proof silver coins are an excellent way to invest in silver. They look nice and they're made out of silver, what more could you ask for?
