I'm looking at purchasing the following....all 3 are graded by ICG 1956-D penny MS67RD (PCGS value of $3,625) 1957-D penny MS67RD (PCGS value of $3,875) 1958-D penny MS67RD (PCGS value of $1,000) Info from http://www.pcgs.com/Prices/PriceGuideDetail.aspx?MS=1&PR=1&SP=1&c=46&title=Lincoln+Cent+(Wheat+Reverse) If I'm understanding this guide right, a RD adds $125 to the value of each coin (in MS67)? Now with that being said, there is quite a gap in value between MS66RD and MS67RD. Values in 66RD are : 56D $57 MS66RD 57D $49 MS66RD 58D $44 MS66RD What kind of difference is there between value of a ICG and a PCGS graded coin? The only thing I can find online anywhere to value coins is the PCGS guide, so I have no earthly idea what kind of ball park the value of these coins will be in not being graded by PCGS. Can someone please give me some quick advise ASAP before I possibly make a decision that I'll regret later on? I'm new to the coin thing, I'm doing my research but I guess that there are just some things I cant look up on Google Should I be able to depend on these coins to be in the $1,000+ range in value? Or should I assume that they will be graded a point or two via PCGS? Thank you!
Can you explain a little more? Thanks for answering, but I would like to know why so I know what to look out for next time. I'm looking at spending less than $10 on each of these....
ICG is not a very reliable company and is not a top tier grading service. PCGS and NGC are the 2 best then a fall off to ANACS and a major drop to ICG.
So PCGS values would be close to what NGC would be?ANACS being a little lower, and ICG being significantly lower?
Not really sure as they don't have their own price guide. Some people are okay with using it and others don't like it all. Im sure someone on here knows about prices.
Well thanks for the tips. Like I said, I'm new at this and I'm trying to learn everything I can to avoid making some stupid purchases.
I haven't been collecting for too long, but mistakes are part of it. You can get a great education on the forums and through books which will save you a lot of money in the end.
Broknindark, There are multiple things you need to take into factor when using Pcgs/Ngc price guides. First in condition rarity while Pcgs may only have say 2 in Ms67 red the guide would show a bit higher price due to the Pcgs registry people paying more. While at Ngc may have 25 in 67rd their price guide would be lower. In general do completed auction searches on Ha.com,Teletrade, and ebay to give you a general idea of value. Several polls have been taken here on CT and 50% will say Ngc is king the other 50% will say Pcgs is better. I myself like Pcgs myself for many reasons but that's me. The guides I figure are about 10% to high. http://www.numismedia.com/fmv/fmv.shtml Ngc's price guide here http://www.ngccoin.com/NGCCoinExplorer/
A Touchy Subject!! WOW!! You've asked a legitimate question about a subject that is very controversial. Any response could incite the "troops", as there is appreciable bias pertaining to these organizations. Since none have responded to your timely request, I will attempt to provide an objective meaningful response. I can only respond relative to my experiences/resources, which don't include RD cents, so I'll answer with general specifics. If you review the current Coin Dealer newsletter, you will find that the coin dealer "Certified Coin Market Indicator" lists the top 4 TPG respectively as: NGC, PCGS, ICG, and ANACS. My understanding is that this evaluation was based on actual sales reports from coin dealers. My experience has been that ICG products are generally less expensive than PCGS, but in the market norm. I have found the PCGS products to normally command a slight premium, but to have significantly greater consumer appeal when priced normally. I've generally found the PCGS Price Guide to be inaccurate, especially extremely at the far right (upper end) of their pricing scale. I personally wouldn't rely on the PCGS Price Guide. I, and many others, use either eBay or Heritage past sales as an indicator of market expectancy. I've found EBay average sales prices to be very representative of current trends, because of their normal sales interval. I would recommend that you similarly use these resources to establish a reasonable market price rather than what I would refer to as a "wish list". You are probably the best individual to determine the value of a commodity upon which you are spending your funds. I would purchase that which you find most relatively appealing. Future pricing expectations for any commodity can grossly fluctuate, so buy as if you acquiring something you would cherish forever, and are spending disposable. This purchasing approach will almost always assure future satisfaction, albeit maybe your returns will be less than desired/anticipated. I personally believe that the price you've indicated to pay is very reasonable for the commodities you've described, and if you're dissatisfied after your purchase, send me a PM, and I'll purchase your coins. :thumb:
Thank you for the detailed responses and the links! After doing some searches on previous ebay auctions, I've found these to sell for about $20. Things seemed kind of "too good to be true"...haha I've always had an interest in old money...specifically coins. But I've never actually pursued it until now. I'm working on getting my collection going, as well as buying / selling for a little bit of extra money to finance my growing collection. I don't care too much for the "value" of something that I'm going to be keeping for my personal collection, however if its something that I intend to buy and resell....I don't want to over pay for it and kill any profit I can get out of it. Thanks again for the answers. The auctions on these coins didn't end until tomorrow, so I had a little bit of time to research
It,s fairly simple though some would disagree PCGS usually has the higher resale value In most third party graded coinage
I've noticed that just browsing classifieds and auctions. PCGS coins are considerably more expensive then their competitors.
This is what you should be looking at to answer your questions- http://coins.ha.com/common/search_r... MS67&Nty=1&N=51+790+231+328&chkNotSold=0&Ns= Now if you are not a member of Heritage, then register. It's free. Once you do, that link will give you real world values for the coins you posted about. It will also show you realized prices for the coins graded by NGC, PCGS, ICG and ANACS so you can compare them to each other. Some things to keep in mind though. Make sure you make note of the auction dates. The coin market bounces up and down like a yo-yo, so realized prices from 2008 are going to be a good bit higher than those from '09, '10 and '11. With additional differences between the last 3 even. Also, do not forget to assess the coin itself regardless of the slab it is in. For even coins graded by the same company, at the same grade, sold at approx the same time, can vary in sales price by as much as 100%. In other words 2 examples of a '56-D Lincoln both graded 67RD by PCGS - 1 sells for $2000 and the other sells for $4000. That's what people mean when they tell you to buy the coin and not the slab.
ICG is a great grading service and do a good job at grading all of the coins I've seen over the years. However, when it comes to the higher grades (67+), they are not as tough as NGC and PCGS. From what I've seen, up to 66 is generally fine and comparable to NGC and PCGS.
"Can someone please give me some quick advise ASAP before I possibly make a decision that I'll regret later on? I'm new to the coin thing, I'm doing my research but I guess that there are just some things I cant look up on Google" Then you have no business buying $5000 coins. Buy some $100 and under coins that appeal to you and spend several years learning to enjoy the game. If you are considering ANY expensive coins as a investment vehicle then you have already lost the game. A fool and his money are soon parted. I'm living proof of that LOL
OP, I will echo many excellent posts here. First, why if you are neew to collecting are you worried about trying to buy the absolute highest known grade of a common coin? These coins are for the virtual ******* (self censored )matches that are registry sets. Not a game to play when starting out. If I had the power I would forbid you to even look at highest graded common coins. Start with learning how to grade, then buying coins you agree with the grade, and buy a few rare coins. If ultra high common coins later become your forte, great, but start off slowly with historically valued coins. Second, PCGS price guides are ONLY for PCGS graded coins, and usually high at that. This is triply true of highest known graded coins. Third, in the coin world, especially for new collectors, if something is too good to be true, there is a reason. If someone is quoting you a too good to be true deal, and you don't know why, come here and ask us. 99% of the time there is a REASON why that is not such a deal, but you are simply unaware of it. Hope that helps, and take it slow. I know when getting into coin collecting it seems so wonderful and you just want to dive in, but I think later you will be glad you didn't jump right in spending thousands right away. Chris
I would make sure to stress that there is a HUGE difference between the old ICG, and the new ICG though. Yes, the old ICG did a pretty good job. But even then it is important to note that even the old ICG was overly generous with modern coins. But with older coins, yup - they did a good job.