1965 Quarter error?

Wow half PMD and half real CUD well I guess I should take it to an expert, where the truth of this mysterious 1965 quarter will be revealed.

 

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how could that be PMD? i mean, i know i'm new to coin collecting, and have not even a clue about errors but PMD would not raise up, it would go down. it's CUD, in my opinion, for it is raised, not lowered. but silent, take it to an expert, although i'm pretty sure it's a CUD.


thanks,
mizozuman2

 

Could someone please explain to me how these anomalies could have occurred in the coining chamber?

My money is on PMD.

 

the only way it could be PMD is if they took solder too it and then sanded it down with some uber fine sandpaper and didn't leave marks. and since it is convex, instead of concave, it would of had to of been either some kind of filler like solder, or a CUD. and since there isn't sandpaper fine enough to sand without leaving hints of scratching, it's probably a CUD instead of PMD. but like i said, let's wait for the experts opinion on it, and we'll see then.


mizozuman2

 

The question of how the anomalies could have been produced in the coining chamber still has not been answered. (Most likely because the anomalies could not have occurred in the coining chamber.)

 

i understand where your getting at there, and i see your point, but the way this coin is, someone would've had to have been really good with solder, or there is more than one of them and we just don't know it.

 

I've come across similar damage and I'm going with pmd as well.

 

Well, Mike Diamond is enough of an expert for me, so I'll agree and say PMD.

 

No disrespect intended toward Mike, but "because I said so" is not good enough for me.

Suppose that massive die failures did occur on both the obverse and reverse dies. We know that the metal flow is normally controlled by the obverse die, reverse die and the retaining collar. Now, if a die break occurred on just one of the dies, we know that the metal flow has to go into that void and the strike on the legend of the opposite die would be weak. However, if both dies failed, it would be harder to predict where the metal would flow. Isn't it possible that the metal flowed to form the cuds, leaving a void (gap) along the edge?

Besides, no one has yet provided an answer to why the metal appears to be raised in the fields. We all know that you can grind a coin "down", but when was the last time you saw someone grind a coin "up".

Chris

 

Can we get pics of the edge? I think it might show that the sides in the damaged areas are thinner which may explain the metal displacement.

 

Well, he does show some edge pics in post #8. Not sure if they help much.

 

It does show some missing metal but the pics need to be from a different angle and distance.

 

I want to say CUD but would they have noticed the die deteriorating before it got that bad? I also think the metal is to uniform in colour to have had anything added to it. Have you weighed it by any chance? have you set it next to a quarter in better shape to see if it's been smooshed post mint?

 

I look at improbabilities, instead of possibilities. I just don't see how the last A in America on the reverse could have struck up so well if it were opposite of a cud.

 

^I agree.

 

This is definately PMD and extremely easy to see how this coin was damaged. The quarter has been severly damaged and looks like someone has tried to straighten it back out to use it as a quarter. If someone wants to duplicate this damage on this quarter take a quarter and stand it up on it's edge and hammer the edge down towards the center in two places. Then lay the quarter down level and hammer the pushed down places back out to where the quarter is round again then you will have one just like in this thread. This is also why the edge of this coin is sunken in at the two places , when the metal was hammered back down the top and bottom part came back out faster than the center part.

I wish my mystery coin was this easy to figure out.

 

Horsehockey!

 

A hammer job for sure!!

 

What the heck. I'm going to try this this weekend, but I can gaurantee it won't return to being as round as it was. It will probably be more oval. I also think your going to see obvious hammer strike marks and pits in the coin from being flattened out.

 

What you are trying to say here makes no sense at all. everything you mention here the coin in question has it all. first off if you will take time to look at the photos in post #1 you can see that the coin is more oval shaped than round and shows plenty of hammer marks and pits. If you want to do this without the hammer marks or pits put your coin in between two smooth pieces of metal. you are welcome to believe what you want to about this coin. if you are planning on buying and collecting error coins I suggest you first learn how the minting process works so you can easy tell the damaged coins from a real error coin. There are millions of man made altered coins out there that are so weird it would be impossible for them to be made by the coin dies at the mints and some of them are really confusing.

the altered coins that appears to be struck by the coin die numerous times with perfect looking raised up extra letters and designs still confuses me because I can not tell for sure how these are being altered . I'm thinking fake dies are used but how can the ones doing this keep from damaging the original mint design or the other side of the coin when applying the other designs right beside of the original strike design ? These used to be on Ebay about every day but Ebay has been cracking down on the sellers of them. These were selling for huge prices.