Doing a Type Set

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Sorry, I didn't see you'd added a dealer thread to your new section. I'll check it out.


I did do a search for "cleaned" & I did look through about four pages of threads and other than a couple of specific things everything seems to mention a coin being cleaned, but not really saying what made someone say it was. I'll give it another go & check some more threads.

 

Ok, I went through & read a bunch of the "How to avoid getting ripped off" stuff & also checked out the dealer sites mentioned (saw a Teutonic coin I really liked ). Thank you for spending the time to put all that together. It's quite educational.

I'm at least feeling a little more educated. I still won't be buying anything more expensive ($20-$30) than some of the modern world stuff I've picked up without asking questions probably.

 

As to Harlan J. Berk, Ltd. in Chicago, I spent many, many years in the downtown area of Chicago. I used to go by that store and went in many, many times over the years. They are one of the most overpriced, unfriendlly, non nogotiable coin dealers I have ever encountered. They USED to be a decent place to buy coins but lately they have gone downhill as far as I am concerned. My LAST, and I mean last, visit to that store I ran into poor quality, mostly cleaned coins for high prices. Actually over Red Book for non cleaned coins. When I asked if this is the best price for a coin, they simply said what you see is what you get. One person that should have recognized me from many years of going there, just walked away to eat his lunch when I walked in leaving me to try to discuss coins with someone that probably had little to no experience. I asked if they anything better than all the cleaned coins in the window and they said the best we have is in the window. The coin supplies such as coin albums were as high priced as if they were made of gold.
I think they got the way they are due to the fact they are right in the middle of the Chicago Downtown area and will always get business from millions of passerbuys. They also sell stamps, artifacts such as very old statues, etc. so coins are not such a big thing there. Half the store is like a museum of ancient articles. They don't even bother to represent themselves at most coin shows because not interested.
Sorry about this negative report but I'm just not used to a place like that. If you want to stick to buying on line, I would suggest asking members here for a list of actual reputable dealers.

 

Here are some dealers I trust---some of them I have never bought anything from but would still trust them.

http://www.workingmancoins.com/index.htm
http://www.islandcoins.com/index.htm
http://www.northeastcoin.com/
http://www.vtcoins.com
http://www.fredweinberg.com
http://www.alaskacoinexchange.com/Index.htm

As for doing a type set....its a great idea....you can do it anyway you like....I would suggest going through books and maybe making your own type set......

Speedy

 

Thanks Speedy, still deciding if this is something I want to do, but you're links are great. Trying to decide if this'll be something I can afford to do at the quality I'd want or not. I don't like stuff that's worn almost smooth, but for some of these coins it seems that unless one can spend $5,000 on a nice VF or EF all you're going to get is something extremely worn. Maybe I'll say to heck with the set & just buy stuff I think is cool at random

To top it all off an interest I had in Ancients & Medievals a long time ago has been rekindled

 

Yes coins can get $$$.....IMHO you should only buy the coins you like and the coins that make you say WOW.....so if that is a BU or one that is worn smooth get it.
Some time ago I decided to do a Proof Franklin set....I really didn't know alot back then (still don't) but picked the grade PF66 as the ONLY grade that would fit in the set.
Right now I'm down to 3 coins to go....I just won a 1950 PCGS PF66 about two days ago.....can't wait to get it in.....so if you want a set all in BU go for it....
The set I'm working on has taken years....and I've sold off part of my collection to buy part of it...I've also traded for it.....but when its done its going to be one of my favorites!!!
There were many times I thought about just getting the $$$ Proof Franklins in lower grades just to get it done with but I knew that wouldn't make me happy.
My point is....if you want to do a BU set....don't let something hold you back....there are coins I own that I never thought I would be able too.....saving and trading works great!!!

Speedy

 

Hope this helps..

1. Cleaned
2. cleaned, possibly fake
3. cleaned, scratched, rim bumps, possibly fake
4. grossly overpriced
5. worth $120-150 genuine, cleaned up f-vf
6. Genuine, but overpriced
7. cleaned
8. looks fake

 

Yeah, thanks. He's on my list of dealers to avoid.

 

Just to get my two cents worth in - I have used this seller a couple of times. I know what to expect and I new the prices were a little high. Yes - most are over priced. If the grade matches to a real grade you can almost figure his first bid is anywhere from $10 to $20 too much(it is almost funny how after you look at enough of his auctions you almost know what to expect when you pull it up).

I think you will find that most auctions are not graded correctly (in my opinion) - and most will not say cleaned(or altered) when it is obvious to my inexperienced eye. So no matter what you do you will make mistakes - but you can always ask here and minimize some of the mistakes. I think at times you will find it hard to grade off pictures on auctions - I have bought TPG coins just for comparisons and I skip any auction that has crappy pictures(my choice). Plus I never plan on selling any of my coins so I do not mind over-paying a little bit.

Also I am finding in certain coins I like raw - plus you can get them cheaper. Someday I will probably get my shield nickels graded just for the fun of it. But I think I will leave my large cents raw - except for a couple of my better coins. I also like my IHC raw - but I have about 8/9 TPG coins (PCGS, ANACS, NGC mostly) I use for comparisons. I find this real helpful. My thoughts for the night.

 

I have bought two things from Ernie (a 1794 Liberty Cap Large Cent and a 1832 Capped Bust Half Dollar). Both were overpriced and it was one of the rare times he agreed to a lower price, but that's not often and I rarely consider anything due to the reasons posted (mostly cleaned or scratched stuff and always overpriced).

 

One late thought...

If you are more comfortable with third party grading than raw coins in order to avoid cleaned or counterfeit coins, but don't necessarily want to collect a premium quality uncirculated example with a high price tag, try www.cheapslabs.com

They might have what you are looking for. I've purchased a couple of things from them without any problems. Just be aware that some of the grading companies they use are not first tier, but the coins are often discounted to reflect that. You sort of get what you pay for.

 

Interesting site, thanks for the link. Too bad they don't appear to have pics of their stuff, some of the stuff I've seen in slabs I'd consider plain ugly even if it was graded pretty high. I did see a couple things at less than $10 I might have to think about though.

 

What you should do is get a clad set, that's more fun. 1965- is all available from change.

Silver/clad halves
Bicentennial halves
Clad halves
Wash. eagleback quarters
51 circulating commemerative quarters
1 dime
jefferson nickels-one obverse mintmark and one reverse mintmark
4 circulataing commemeratives
new jefferson obverse
one cent
the 2009 commemeratives

Add to this the three dollars and you're done.

 

There are two ways to do it. One go to a store or a show and buy the coins. Or get a whitman folder and try to get a 1965+ set from change. This would include wheaties from earlier. You'll still have to buy the silver stuff, but it would be more fun that way.

 

you should put this to music and put it on Broadway