Try a soak in distilled water first. That'll remove anything that will disolve in water. Then soak in acetone and see what changes. If there's no change then, IMO, it's a mechanical problem.
My opinion is the lines, weather visible or not, were on the coin from the mint. Similar to a woody. They follow the fields, wiping lines miss the edges.
There is only one way those lines could uniformly cross the fields and without interruption go up the edges of and across the devises. Those lines have to be from the planchet itself or possibly from the planchet preparation.
I believe those lines were created from the sheet being pulled through the feeder rollers prior to the blanking process. The same marks should appear on the reverse but in the opposite direction or angle. A BiCentennial IKE with blanking Striations A 1973-D IKE with Blanking Striations A Georgia State Quarter with blanking striations. If you don't like or want the coin, PM me so we can negotiate a price. I like em!
The backside does have them, although they are very difficult to see as the toning does not make them as visible as the obverse. 19Lyds, I think this may be the issue. Do others concur?????????????????? Is this the same as the "woody" referred to earlier?
So we are thinking the same but I can guarantee you it had nothing to do with the sun. If it was described as it been in a Capital Plastic holder, then I would disagree with that because it was "maybe" in one at one point but moved to a cloth storage "container" of some sort that had some sort of soft cloth with such a pattern (IMO). For it to have such a pattern both on the design, running on the fields as well, must have been some sort of velvet/cloth. But this is just my opinion and I like the coin and if it was in my posetion, I would keep it as such without doing any sort of cleaning to it.
Belt sander............okay It just got wiped with an abrasive surface very lightly. [ View attachment 115946 View attachment 115947 [/QUOTE] That looks like it got attached to jeans while ironing (just a thought)
Your pictures a bit fuzzy, but I do not see the lines going onto the devises. From what I can make out, your coin is due to die scratches.
It is either die or planchet. It is NOT from being wiped by anything. The lines are straight and perpendicular. They also flow in that straight manner across the rises and falls of the design on the coin. Wiping with a cloth or anything else is not going to do that that uniformly.
Your dime's appearance was caused by the same thing as the IKE's I've posted. Pulling the clad sheets through the blanking press rollers which scratched/gouged the surfaces prior to blanking. Flip it over and the lines will be running in what appears the opposite direction just like the IKEs and the 71-D Kennedy. The devices don't show the lines as clearly on the 1969 dime solely because of wear, but they are there. The 1964 Kennedy I'm more inclined to think it was sandwiched between something based solely upon the green tint. I'm just not that comfortable with roller scratches due to the width of the lines coupled with the green tint.
I recall this question in the ?error section?, and I believe 19Lyds is all over this one... I also have Ike's with similar parallel lines, and we agreed at the very least it came from the mint like that and more than likely caused when the planchets are made. You just don't see it very well when it's new, however a little toning or even dipping brings it out big time.
Looking at the 64 and the 71 Kennedy side by side...the effect appears the same. The 64 though, I believe, was in an environment that caused it to tone/tarnish very heavily with the green...so the tone is heavier than the lines. Where the 71 has more smooth toning. Could this be a difference in the material (silver versus nickel clad), or could that difference mean there is no way (from a manufacturing perspective) that the errors are the same type?
The 1964 would have to be closely examined since the lines appear to be too far apart for roller marks. Almost like a thin corduroy.
Key decision for me that it must be in the planchet or die is the way the pattern continues through both the high and low portions of the devices so perfectly. Through the center of the 9 and 6, through the D's O's and R's, through the contours of the shield. I can't think of how a cloth, bag, or other would maintain linear shape, yet go in and out of these small areas seamlessly.