Wheat Penny Grading Lesson Please

Discussion in 'US Coins Forum' started by Kelli Roberts, Jan 9, 2011.

  1. Kelli Roberts

    Kelli Roberts New Member

    Here is a 1934 Wheat Penny that I have. I'm curious, after having immersed myself into the Lincoln Cent Grading Guide - where this coin really falls. I cant wait to receive the REAL magnifying glass I just ordered to see more detail in the coins. :eek:

    All input welcomed. My first guess, if you will, is that it "descriptively" comes close to a Fine? But I'm sure its discoloration & nicks detract from it also. Trying to learn the baby-steps to better define the coins I have. Thanks!

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  3. GDJMSP

    GDJMSP Numismatist Moderator

    Kelli I'd say the coin actually has VF 35 details, but it's been around the block a few times. It also looks to have been harshly cleaned. In effect that takes a VF 35 coin and makes it worth an F 15 problem free coin.

    Now if you took that into account to arrive at your F estimate, then you are doing better than most. If not, then learn from it.
     
  4. Kelli Roberts

    Kelli Roberts New Member

    After a stare & compare of the obvious elements - facial, typeset, etc. in their grading guide - it seemed to even be a VF to me as well. I'm still learning :)

    This is one of several that I inherited so no telling on a prior cleaning. My Dad used the little cardboard holders that you staple shut to protect a number of these wheaties. They {about 35} have all been stored that way for 40+yrs since he/they would have found them.

    Thanks for your thoughts on it.

    If you, or anyone who runs across the thread doesnt mind saying how to generally ID a steel penny in the years they were printed . are they really more silver colored? I have a weird colored one from '43 also that I'm working on a few pix of.
     
  5. Kelli Roberts

    Kelli Roberts New Member

    ETA - Just answered my own '43 question finding a tip about a magnet test. Thats going to be a steelie.
     
  6. Leadfoot

    Leadfoot there is no spoon

    VF details with surface issues. GDJMSP nailed it, IMO.
     
  7. EyeEatWheaties

    EyeEatWheaties Cent Hoarder

    31, 32, 33, 34 are the tougher dates to find of that decade .

    You might also consider googling Loupe for looking at coins close up.

    I think your pictures gives as good or better than a magnifying glass.
     
  8. Kelli Roberts

    Kelli Roberts New Member

    Will do. I ordered a 15x handheld that I'm sure will help tremendously. My Canon does take pretty good pix, its just getting the lighting correct thats the bear of photographing them. Looking for any & all tiny details or anomolies is grueling for a novice. LoL

    I have another '34 also I'm going to post here as I would love to know opinions on how to independently look at the two & which would be the stronger graded.

     
  9. Kelli Roberts

    Kelli Roberts New Member

    Here is 1934 {No. 2} .. This one, to my untrained eye, seems to have a better surface area but its more worn looking to me.

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  10. GDJMSP

    GDJMSP Numismatist Moderator

    Regarding the glass - 95% of all grading is done with the naked eye. And when grading nothing stronger than 5x is used. Stronger magnification is only used when it is needed to examine some tiny detail that you are unsure of such as verifying authenticity or trying to pin down a variety. Using too much magnification will cause you to under-grade.

    As for the 2nd coin, yes it is more worn. I would say VF 20 details. And it too looks to have been harshly cleaned. As to it having a better surface area, I'd say no, that they are about the same. The difference to me would be that this has retoned after its harsh cleaning and because of that it looks better when it really is not.
     
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