Grading MS+ Jefferson Nickels.

Discussion in 'Coin Chat' started by gbroke, Dec 30, 2010.

  1. gbroke

    gbroke Naturally Toned

    I am trying to educate myself in the grading of mint state and higher Jefferson Nickels.
    I have tried photograde and I also tried by looking at the graded nickels I have.
    I just can't seem to distinguish between some of the different grades.

    Is there a book or information somewhere that can explain the criteria for each high grade? I really need to know specifically what to look for.
    Most grading things I have seen are more about the range from good to MS, not for MS60-MS70.
    I know its a science and take a lot of practice, but like I said, Pictures do not help.
     
  2. Avatar

    Guest User Guest



    to hide this ad.
  3. gbroke

    gbroke Naturally Toned

    Does the PCGS "Coin Grading and Counterfeit Detection" book address this?
     
  4. snaz

    snaz Registry fever

    Hey gbroke,
    Pretty well the only things I know about this series have come from members here like Speedy and Lehigh, so I would suggest going to those members screens and reading the threads they have started. Lehigh has started more threads regarding high grade nickels than anyone else on the forum. So that would be a good place to start.
     
  5. gbroke

    gbroke Naturally Toned

    Yeah, I have contacted Paul(Lehigh) about it in our Jefferson Group.
    It is just so frustrating because the slabbed ones I have at MS66 DO NOT look like the ones in pcgs photograde (as far as contact marks go) So I am stumped. I am hoping Lehigh can clear it up for me.
     
  6. GDJMSP

    GDJMSP Numismatist Moderator

    It sounds like what you are misunderstanding is that there is more to grading a coin than contact marks.

    When trying to grade higher grade (65 and up) coins you have to consider lots of things. First of all there is planchet quality and whether or not the coin is well centered. Then you have to judge contact marks. But contact marks also vary by their postion on the coin and the severity of each. Then you have to judge hairlines. Then luster, and lastly eye appeal.

    Where most people get into trouble when trying to grade is that they forget that say contact marks on one coin may be the limiting factor in the grade but on another coin luster may be the limiting factor.

    You see, that's the thing. Any of the criteria used can be the limiting factor in the grade, or they can be what makes the grade. You have to learn how to judge each criteria and then how to weigh it for each different coin.

    It's not as easy as it sounds. That's why you have to see, in hand, thousands and thousands of coins before you get a good handle on how to do that.
     
  7. gbroke

    gbroke Naturally Toned

    Well that makes sense. I am really understanding that it is VERY subjective. I guess I was dreaming to think there was a defined set of criteria to determine the higher grades. I guess I was hoping for some sort of checklist in order of importance. lol
    For example:
    1: Luster
    2: eye appeal
    3: contact marks in portrait/field
    4: toning as a negative or positive
    5: strike
    etc..

    Sounds to me, like you said, is I have to really check out graded ones and learn through that route.
    I really need to look at them and understand what is holding it back from a higher grade etc..

    Thank you for the informative reply GDJMSP.
     
  8. GDJMSP

    GDJMSP Numismatist Moderator

    Well, over the years the order of importance for each criteria has changed. But for the past several years luster has been of primary importance. Then eye appeal, then the location and severity of marks, with everything else coming after that.

    It's also important as to which set of grading standards you want to use. For example, with the ANA standards quality of strike is important, but still after luster and eye appeal. But with the TPGs quality of strike is almost meaningless.

    Toning is merely part of eye appeal.

    They don't even have to be graded. Just by looking at a sufficient quantity of high grade raw coins you will learn a ton ! But pictures aint gonna cut it. You have got to look at the coins in hand.

    So post a pic of the coin in question and I'll see if I can explain what is holding back.
     
  9. gbroke

    gbroke Naturally Toned

    That would be fantastic. I will do that tonight. I have a couple in mind. They are 65's and seem to me, to be much nicer then a 66 I have.

    I hope this isn't a stupid question, but I'll ask anyway:

    Would the criteria to reach higher grades change between years. Since the Jefferson has been such a long run, would earlier Jeffersons get a little more 'leniency' than say, more modern ones? Hope that makes sense.
     
  10. vnickels

    vnickels Matt Draiss Numismatics & Galleries

    DSC_0038.jpg DSC_0035.jpg DSC_0039.jpg [​IMG]
     

    Attached Files:

  11. vnickels

    vnickels Matt Draiss Numismatics & Galleries

    Here's some high gradders from my dad's collection. All are slabbed MS-66 Full Steps by the big 2 graders.
     
  12. gbroke

    gbroke Naturally Toned

    Very nice. I haven't even gotten to the moderns one yet! I have been buying A LOT of original bank wrapped rolls from the 50's -70's. Hoping to find some elusive full steps. Dare to dream..
     
  13. vnickels

    vnickels Matt Draiss Numismatics & Galleries

    Thanks and Good luck!
     
  14. Lehigh96

    Lehigh96 Toning Enthusiast

    Greg,

    The criteria used for the earlier Jeffersons is much different than that used for the 50's & 60's Jeffersons. The quality of the early nickels and moderns is quite good, but the coins produced in the 50's & 60's were generally terrible. To answer your question, don't expect a 1964-D MS67 to look anything like a 1940-D or 1941-D MS67.

    Paul
     
  15. gbroke

    gbroke Naturally Toned

    Perfect, thanks Paul.
     
  16. Hobo

    Hobo Squirrel Hater

    I'm curious - what is higher than Mint State?
     
  17. vnickels

    vnickels Matt Draiss Numismatics & Galleries

    +1
     
  18. mark_h

    mark_h Somewhere over the rainbow

    Good one - but of course we knew he meant MS60 and higher. :)
     
  19. medoraman

    medoraman Supporter! Supporter

    Paul,

    So you are saying that the criteria TPG'ers use vary by date in the same series? Or am I misinterpreting you?

    Chris
     
  20. mark_h

    mark_h Somewhere over the rainbow

    I believe he is saying that. That is true for a lot of series where there are strike differences between dates.
     
  21. medoraman

    medoraman Supporter! Supporter

    :( What is wrong with having one dang set of standards and accepting the fact that some dates/mintmarks are inferior and harder to find in good condition.

    I was hoping I was misinterpreting Paul.
     
Draft saved Draft deleted

Share This Page