Opinions on a 16-D merc- real?

Discussion in 'US Coins Forum' started by Captainkirk, Dec 13, 2010.

  1. Coinguy56

    Coinguy56 Member

    I would spend a few hundred more and buy one in a slab just to be sure its real. Unless you know for sure, and you can see it in person, don't buy it.
     
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  3. Leadfoot

    Leadfoot there is no spoon

    I am anything but an expert, and I did not compare it to any real 16-d's, but the coin looks good to me.
     
  4. prolawn_care

    prolawn_care New Member

    It's hard to tell without seeing it in person, but one way to help authenticate a 16-D is to check the rotation of the die a TRUE 16-D will have a slight rotation to 1 o' clock. Obviously you cant tell by buying from e-bay...

    You will never be able to have that coin graded by a good grading service because the wear goes into the letters. In my opinion this coin is genuine, because it's not worth counterfeiting a $200 coin... The wear is very even, and it's a crappy looking coin! That usally makes it real.

    The grade on this coin would be an F-2 Very poor quality, maybe a good album filler, but i really wouldn't pay over $130 on it just incase...

    Honestly if you want a 16-D save up for a better quality coin! You'll never see your money back on that coin. Just my .02 on the issue, but i own 2 16-D one in G-6 condition and one in (self graded EF-40) and have had many offers on the EF-40 coin, but never an offer on the G-6 coin....
     
  5. Captainkirk

    Captainkirk 73 Buick Riviera owner

    I bid $288 on it. If it is genuine, it is worth it to me. I am an ANA member and I believe there is a way for me to get it authenticated, never done it before. I haven't seen any sold for under $380 on ebay, so if it's real, I'll be happy. I really can't afford anything in a better grade or slabbed. I guess I'm a 'scrape the bottom of the barrel' type of collector.
     
  6. Treashunt

    Treashunt The Other Frank

    Kirk

    good luck, I still think that it is real.


    but, that it just my opinion, for what it is worth.

    well, it is at $280, with over a day to go, so...

    good luck.
     
  7. mralexanderb

    mralexanderb Coin Collector

    I'D STAY AWAY FROM THIS SELLER AND ANY OF HER AUCTIONS. I'VE HAD EXPERIENCE WITH HER SWITCHING COINS AND USING PHOTOS THAT WERE NOT OF THE COIN FOR SALE.

    She seems to always sell very poor quality key coins that turn out to be fakes. Check out her feedback. Do a search for her name. She's bad news.

    Bruce
     
  8. coop

    coop Senior Member

    Looks like from I can see on several different images, there are at least two mint mark locations. (I always thought there was only one pair of dies used) But from the PCGS Photograde you can see at least two different locations:
    http://www.pcgs.com/photograde/#/Mercury/Grades
    On the G4 & G6 reverses. The mark at the top of the 6 on the date is a bag mark.
    Real? At least one question in my mind is answered.
     
  9. Captainkirk

    Captainkirk 73 Buick Riviera owner

    With over a day left, and my bid just 9 dollars more, I will not win this auction. I wish there was a good coin dealer near me. My long term goal is to complete my 2 sets of Mercs to give to my daughters. I only need the two 16-Ds. (and to update a few of the AG ones.)
     
  10. mralexanderb

    mralexanderb Coin Collector

    There have always been a lot of fake 1916 D Mercs out there. IMO, you should buy a authenticated and graded coin from either PCGS, NGC or ANACS. Certainly not from "oivr".

    Bruce
     
  11. jello

    jello Not Expert★NormL®



    I tried but! :dead-horse:
     
  12. rotobeast

    rotobeast Old Newbie

    I hear ya, brutha !
    Mine is very rough...lol

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  13. mac266

    mac266 Well-Known Member

    ANA's current estimate is that 75% of uncertified 1916-Ds are counterfeit. That is NOT a typo, 75% are FAKE. Don't buy it -- if you do, there is a 75% likelihood you just got ripped off.

    Oh, and yes, being an ANA member gives you permission to submit coins to NGC. Go to NGC's web site and it explains how to get a submitter number, etc.
     
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