Acid restored buffalo nickels

I've been buying buffalo nickels on eBay to try to complete a set, and now I am down to where I only need six more, but as you might expect, they are the expensive ones. I don't have much of a budget and I can't see paying a few hundred dollars for a coin. I've noticed a lot of people selling acid restored buffalos on eBay and also noticed no one really bids on them. I don't really want restored coins because it just doesn't feel right. However, I've also noticed that some of the coins I need that otherwise would cost me hundreds of dollars are selling for a few bucks as acid restored. So I'm wondering is it ever worth it to buy acid restored buffalos or are they just worthless?

 

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I don't think they are worth anything really.
But to each his own.

 

I have restored a few for myself. To fill a book on the cheap. I find it fun to see what appears. I have found a couple rare ones. Would make good fillers for not much money.

 

What jensenbay said, which ones are you missing?

 

Using Nic-a-Date to restore a dateless Buffalo is damaging an already non-collectible coin.
If you buy a coin with a problem you will always have a coin with a problem.

That being said, if for the foreseeable future that is the only way you will be able to own certain coins, then:
- buy them with the hope that much further down the line you can replace them.
OR
- don't buy them until you can eventually afford them.

The money you spend now will most likely never be recovered.
If finances are that tight for you, do you really want to lose that money even if it's only a few bucks?
Future-think.

 

Ditto - I agree with what you posted.

 

I need 1913 S Type 1 (which is in my price range and I will buy eventually)
1913 D Type 2
1913 S Type 2
1914 D
1915 S (which is also in my price range)
1921 S
and the 1937 3-legged one

I've found if you go after lower grade coins you can find them for far below the book value, so that has helped me in this quest, but the 1913 S type 2 is still $350 in low grade.

It sounds like the acid restored coins are as worthless as I suspected, so I think I'll save my money for now. Thanks for the input.

 

I think you are a bit high for that 1913-S type 2. See http://coins.ha.com/common/view_item.php?Sale_No=29093&Lot_No=24038.

BTW, I would not exactly say acid restored dates are worthless. See http://coins.ha.com/common/view_item.php?Sale_No=29092&Lot_No=22360

 

Unfortunately I'm not a member so I can't see the prices on the links you provided. The price of $350 I quoted is from a recent issue of Coin Values magazine that I have. I don't know how accurate they are but I figure it's a ballpark figure at least.

 

You ought to join. It is free and they have a wealth of info especially their inventory of past sales - with pictures.

Anywho, the 1913-S went for $116 and the 1918/7-D restored date went for $138.

 

I agree with RLM; they aren't completely worthless. They may be considered damaged, much like any other damaged coin, but they are genuine and ANACS will slab them as such.

Even a damaged key date or variety is still worth more than an empty album hole.

 

How do they get a overdate to show with the acid dip...now that skill is cool

 

If the coin has not been totally trashed and you are patient, you get a full 4 digit date and a full horn with vinegar. It actually looks like a descent coin.

 

I've never used Nik-a-date but I might have to get some as I have tons of no dates. Is there any pointers you can give?

 

I have a bunch of buffalos lying around, what can I do with vinegar I might give that a try.

 

Yup, I myself prefer apple cider vinegar for my no dates, a soak until it turns green/blue, rinse, check out, then maybe another soak until it is green/blue again.

 

I've got plenty of 13-D's and I have a 13-S and I'll have to check on the 15-S. I've only come across 1 14-D so far, I'm hanging on to it. If you want them PM me your mailing info...

 

I've got a 13-S type two in AG. Barely able to tell. Some of the people on here think its been acid restored. Idk. It doesn't have the look of the other ones I personally did (dateless and giving them away to little kids). "Cherrypicked" it out of a bag of "dateless"

 

While I agree that buffalo nickels with restored dates are looked down upon from coin collecting "purists" (Especially common Philadelphia coins) , they are, after all, a "Genuine" example of that date and mint mark to fill that spot, until a more expensive example can be afforded. In fact, many people turn the Buffalos around in their "book" to show the Reverse with Mintmarks, next to the obverse of the Philadelphia example. That being said, MOST restored buffalo nickels with rare dates, have a STRONGER Reverse than Obverse, and look "pretty good" from the "back in your book". I see some people trying to sell restored nickels for high asking prices. If there were a price guide for restored nickels, I say it would be in the 10% of GOOD (4) area, and would have a Grading Value of (0) Restored. So for example a 1914-D that lists for aprox $90 in Good (4), a reasonable price for a restored 1914-D would be $8.00 to $ 9.00 (10%). If you happen to find a 1918/7-D nickel with restored date that lists for aprox $ 1000 in Good (4), a reasonable price to expect to pay would be around $ 100 restored. Obviously a coin is only worth what a person is willing to pay for it, so use your judgement and remember...Genuine is Genuine. And as to some people drawing differences between restoration techniques...in the end a restored nickel is a restored nickel no matter how it's done, and even if it "looks better", it's STILL RESTORED" and will never be "UNRESTORED" ..BUT...is a legitimate example of that mintage. Dates that hold value when restored are...1913-TY 1 and TY 2 D & S coins. 1914-D, 1914-S, 1915-S, 1915-D, Early Teen D & S coins have value, but not as much as the truly rare issues. 1918/7-D is a winner always. 1921-S and 1926-S (with the lowest mintage of the series) are desirable as well. And as a final note, maybe the only reason you would restore no date Philadelphia coins, is to MAYBE, HOPEFULLY, find a 1916/1916 doubled die Obverse. Finding JUST ONE, would make all your searching worth the trouble.