Alright, So after recovering from my GREAT deal on my 1861-O half (for those of you who haven't seen it, the thread is called NEWP 1861-O Seated Half), I decided to go back to the shop I bought it at. Last time I was there they had an 1861 Quarter in the same condition for $23 and I was going to buy it but, unfortunately, it had sold. However, they had an 1829 Busted Half with great luster and detail (and uncleaned as of my initial inspection) for a tiny $49. It is on hold for me and I am going to take pics of it tomorrow to post on here to get opinions. I'm pretty certain (99%) its real but is there anything I should look for to know for 100% sure? And any varieties (other than those in redbook) I should look at it for? Thanks, Tyler
Simple questions with not-so-simple answers. No, there is no single thing to look for to know 100% for sure the coin is genuine. Authentication is a process. What works (to authenticate or condemn) one coin may not work on another. There are many, many varieties of Capped Bust Half Dollars. They are listed in the Overton book. (Perhaps your dealer has a copy.)
I figured that. I didn't know if there were any "famous" copies of 1829's. It looks in all aspects genuine though. Its sort of an indirect dealer. I go to an antique store in town where vendors put stuff. I've never met the guy who puts the stuff there, I just know that he has cheap prices on most of the higher-end stuff. I'll google it and see what I can come up with. And next time I'm in a bookstore I'll look it up. Thanks for the quick reply!
Be aware there are MANY contemporary counterfeit CBHs. Most are obvious but some are deceptive. Contemporary counterfeit CBHs are collectible. (I buy them when I can.)
Ok. I'm going to take pics tomorrow. I'll get the best I can and then post them here for the experts on this type to chime in. I'm not very good with coins of that age (especially halves) because normally they are WAY out of my budget.
Obviously cleaned, maybe more than once. Do not fret since many if not most were. Looks like a good buy for the price, I would buy it if you don't. $50 was what these went for 20 years ago, (well maybe $35 but $50 is cheap now). Common date, only the 1830's are more common. Nice type coin, pretty well struck which is a plus. Buy it unless you can tell it is too light, (most counterfeits struck from lighter metal). I see nothin from the picture to make me think its not legit.
I noticed the cleaning lines this trip. Kind of saddened me. Still a nice coin though. What kind of value would it have since its been cleaned. And I know the pics aren't great but a grade? I figured VF-30 (does that exist lol, don't know where it would change) or EF-40 if uncleaned.
I would just call it XF cleaned - not a bad coin for $49. Just my opinion and I did not try to attribute it.
Yep - the overton variety can make the difference on what a coin is worth. Sometimes because it is a really popular variety and sometimes because it is a rare variety.
In 1829 there happened to be 20 different die marriages. This at first check I think is O-113 which is an R3 coin. Great price if confirmed.
Good information, but it is a good price regardless. If the OP doesn't want it, I am sure there are people here, including me, who would buy it. I don't actively collect them anymore, but would buy it just on principle.
Oh believe me I want it lol. Its a beautiful type coin and its one I normally couldn't afford. If I come across another one I'll get it and sell it to you at a *slight* premium lol I'm new to the whole die marraiges/R1,2,3 thing as I have just started getting coins old enough to have to worry about that. My 1861-O is an R2(+?, can't remember at the moment). What does R3 mean?
R1 - common over 1000 known R2 - Slightly common 500 to 1000 R3 - Scarce 201 to 500 R4 - Very Scarce 81 to 200 R5 - rare 31 to 80 R6 - Very rare 13 to 30 R7 - Extremely Rare 4 to 12 R8 - unique or nearly so 1 to 3 Now personally I think they need to redo some of the rarity ratings - some would decrease and some would increase. I think once you get to R5 or higher significant premiums could be on the coin. Not so much on r1 to r3 - and R4's seems sometimes they do and sometimes they don't have premium. Now some R1 to R3 coins carry premiums because of the demand for them.
