Do fingerprints affect a proofs grade

Believe it or not, I have removed a fingerprint with mild dishsoap and hot water. just my 2 cnts

 

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but Fret, that leaves residue and unknown chemicals to attack your coins over time!

 

Could be true, but he's got at least 20 coins to deal with and if I had that many I would take one and wash it like I said and take one more and try the acetone and see which one comes out looking better. Incidentally it was a Franklin half dollar that I washed with plenty of suds and rubbed slightly with my soapy fingers. Hey I didn't have any other choice as the prints looked deep to me. Oh, it looks fine now and by looking at it nobody can even tell the difference.

 

Fret: You can't see with your eyes or even a standard loop the residue that would be left behind by soap necessarily.

 

Has the question been asked: "Were the fingerprints there before your "assistant" handled the coins? It's a very important question since it also affects the outcome of the acetone dip.

In other words, if the fingerprints are not "fresh" then the coins are damaged.

Will it hurt the OP's investment? Fingerprints, whether fresh or old will ALWAYS get passed over for unprinted coins "regardless" of grade.

 

I'll buy your acetone dipped Franky Proofs any day of the week!

 

Touching the surface of a Silver Proof is disaster just waiting to happen.

 

Absolutely! That is certainly the truth, but for the op to send them in to get graded now is a moot point I would think. So either way, acetone or dishsoap is gonna be a rough go. In other words if you have to keep a coin because it's ruined by finger prints it might as well look good.

 

then sell it as is before you do any more damage (doctoring) to the coin and buy a print free example

 

Well that's certainly one way to take care of it but who wants to buy a coin that has prints on it? I just think it's best to make the coin look as good as possible.

 

It's not my point about who want's to buy the coin with the prints on it. I'm referring to your idea to clean the coin and keep it in your own collection. I suggested taking the loss of the coin(s) with the print(s) on them, selling them for the best you can and replacing your coin with one in the grade you wanted it because a flaw on a coin in your collection will always be that in your mind and collection.

 

Interesting thought, and certainly good for me to see how other's think. Depending on how they look (the coins) would really be the key to the answer.

 

I would just stick with what Doug recommended.

 

Wouldn't NCS get the prints off and then forward them to NGC for grading?

 

Who in their right mind would let someone with no coin collecting experience handle proof coins and put them in a 2x2? You could've at least given him (or her) a pair of gloves to use.

I wouldn't blame the assistant one bit, it's on you buddy.

 

unfortunately they the fingerprints are more than 24 hours, I decided to run them under distilled water then let them dry against the countertop on their sides, so observe reverse dry evenly.
I got about 70-80% of them removed. It's just a bummer since I paid $150 per coin for 40 coins. I planned to get them slabbed and make a nice $80 per coin. However It looks like I'm going to sell them raw for $200-220. And the assistant was well paid, he can enjoy 19% unemployment this is like the 14th time hespulled this horse doodoo

 

IMO it is very unlikely that any "blast white" silver coin from the thirties and fourties has NOT been dipped. Especially when talking quarters and dimes. In those days it was common practice for collectors to clean their coins with baking soda and a brush. There was no such thing as flips or slabs, and most collectors kept their coins in albums, envelopes, and wooden cabinets. All three of the former methods of storage WILL result in toned coins. I would be willing to bet that MOST blast white silver out on the market today has seen the business end of some jewel luster. So, you have a nice blast white example of an slq, or merc, perhaps even earlier barber coinage? I'd bet my pants its been dipped. Of course there are plenty examples that sat in the middle of a roll, and were not seriously toned up, but for all practical purposes, silver is SUPPOSED to tone. I think people are kidding themselves when they say they only collect blast white, and shun toned coinage.

 

Water is no good, you must use acetone. The finger prints are still there, they are largely insoluble in water.

 

IMHO since these are proof coins and not business strikes, then the value has been significantly diminished. Proof coins have deeply struck devices and in the case of 1950s proof Franklins, highly mirrored surfaces. The surfaces on these coins are far less forgiving than those of a business strike due to the mirrored finish. They show the slightest of marks and likely will show the signs of removing them.

 

Hey man, if he doesn't know what he's doing you can't blame him! At least educate him first about coins and how to handle them...