Hammering the Staples in back of the 2x2 cardboard holders

I've been told by many dealers that I should hammer the staples in the back in.

why is that? it seems like common practice and ive never known about it.

 

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Or better yet, buy a flat cinch stapler at Wizard or JP's Corner or.....

 

Because the curvature of the "leg" of the staple could damage a coin in another 2x2 if it should slide across the face of that coin. You don't need a hammer to do it, though. It's much easier using a pair of pliers to flatten it. Better yet, there are staplers on the market that flatten the staples automatically. TJ Max has the model HD-50DF for this.

Chris

 

Buy the "Flat Clinch" stapler they are talking about... One of the best purchases I ever made!

 

I've seen 2 X 2s that stick together instead of staples. After all these years, I'm surprised staples are still used.

 

I just use pliers.

 

I heard of some grinding the ribs off the pliers tip to keep from making a waffle pattern on 2X2's. Leaving a flat pattern on the 2X2.

 

Actually the waffle pattern "embossing" from your pliers makes a security feature preventing coin switching.

 

I've been flattening the back of the staples on my 2x2s since I was a kid. As mentioned earlier, it reduces the risk of scratching other coins when the holder comes in contact with other 2x2-ed coins. Also, you do save a bit of space in 2x2 file boxes because flattening the staples reduces some of the space each holder takes up. Finally, you reduce the risk of scratching or damaging the mylar and cardboard on the other holders when the staples are flattened.

I have always just used a simple pair of pliers to flatten the staples. I'm too scared to hammer my 2x2s... I wouldn't want to miss :-/

 

I would not want to take the risk of the glue reacting with my coins and you take the risk of misplacing your coin directly onto the glue while placing it into the 2x2. I think this is why the glue 2x2's aren't that attractive to most people.

 

Engraving the waffles on your pliers with your initials would prove that you own these coins and make them tamper proof as Frankcoins mentioned.

 

I use pliers even on my flat cinch stapler. I had a nice war nickel take a staple to the obverse so I am now ultra peranoid.

 

Yeah, you could even design your initials to create a doubled die in the embossing.

Chris

 

Standard pliers are tough for me to use if I have to do a LOT of coins.
I find channel locks are much easier.
Longer handles means more pressure for the same amount of squeeze.
OR
The same pressure for the less squeeze.

 

i tape my flips now, i got some dollar store stapler that takes a few tries to even get through the flip! the tape makes the 2x2's a bit smaller and a lot safer, plus it protects the writing on the 2x2.

 

Have you ever smelled tape? Doesn't it bother you that the fumes might be hazardous to the health of your coins?

Chris

 

I use a pair of needlenose pliers to smashdown the staples. Seems to work well, never had a problems getting scratched.

 

I use channel locks. Reasoning is simple. If you look at needle nose or most any other standard pliers, the tightest spot is at toward the pivot. In other words, it squeezes the edge of the 2X2 harder than the staple. With channel locks, the tightest spot is at the end. They squeeze the staple harder than the edge. This is particularly useful for my cents since they have a smaller hole and require a longer reach by the pliers than the others. Also. a lot of channel locks can do both prongs of the staple at once.

 

I use a heavy duty stapler, the type that can do 20-30 pages at once.
That way the staple goes through and crimps the first time, every time.
That's another reason I use channel locks. Regular pliers just can't do the job without a LOT of hand strength, which is why I can't do a lot of 2x2's with pliers.
Plus there's and added feature. It's VERY difficult to remove the staple so it's a security factor if I sell coins in 2x2's. The staples can't be removed without it being obvious.

 

As I have posted photos before showing toning ( which could lead over time to corrosion ) can be caused by steel staples, I would recommend stainless steel staples if you wish to use them, but tapes are a reasonable substitute. Common 3M transparent tape uses an adhesive that is basically acrylic and polyesters over polyethylene, but it can also contain neoprene could over time breakdown to chloride radicals. Old transparent tape can sometimes show acidic effects on paper and coins. Thus an archival tape that uses non-acidic constituents would be preferred. How about Duck tape?, No , not that type , but this perhaps. acid free-archival.
http://www.amazon.com/Duck-Invisibl...=UTF8&s=office-products&qid=1281310629&sr=8-9