How to remove scratches from slabs

Some members probably wish that all slabs have that purpose

But the slabs in reference are the plastic enclosures that Grading companies such as PCGS, ANACs, SEG, etc. use to hold and protect the coin after grading or authentication. The plastic over the coin's surface tends to get scratched and difficult to photograph or see the fine details.

Welcome!

Jim

 

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Ended up with this from Walmart. A little more expensive, $5. But its specifically designed for clear plastic and not paint as some of the other products were. Maybe I'm just a sucker. I tried it on some of my cheaper slabs that were readily available and it worked great.

 

There were a lot of choices there! Glad it works well. It sure makes a difference in photographing the coins inside the slabs. I don't know who came up with the idea to use it first, but I am also glad I tried it. Bet some people try it on the coins itself with the uses mentioned on the front of the bottle

Jim

 

I might have to try this on some proof sets that are scratched up as well.

 

Just Carl,
It's not very WISE to crack a coin out of a "sonically sealed" coin slab, also to add on some coin slabs cost around anywhere from $10-$30 just to have a coin "graded and slabbed" these coin slabs are not some Dinky flimsy plastic, you just throw away and go to wal-mart buy some more, I've had a few friends "crack open" a few coin slabs to send the coins back to Graders, due to fact their coin slab's were scratched and also hoping to get a higher grading on their coins, when the coins were shipped back to them they were surprised :bigeyes: to see some of their coins were never even "re-slabbed" or "graded" instead their coins were "placed in body-bags" .. and it nothing to Laugh about.. once a coin in a "body bag" you'll never be able to sell it for price it worth. I used a product called "slab-renew" I bought it off Ebay for about $13 it takes out deep scratches but it takes several Coats to get the scratch blemished out, at the end you'll still have "Hairlines" on the slabs from buffing it out with soft cloth, even Pure silk will will leave small hairlines on clear plastic, way I see it "Hairlines" are better than deep scratched, but some buyers will complain about small hairlines on slabs, slabs are made to protect the coin, every time you pick a slab up it gonna get very tiny scratches that all they were developed for like saying goes "buy the coin NOT THE SLAB"

 

If you can't find any of the already referenced products, there is also a common product line called Novus. It comes in three different strengths based on the severity of the scratch and can even be used to buff out and repair damaged CD's or DVD's.

 

me too! Hey, what section of Walmart will we be looking in???

 

Automotive with the car polish etc.

 

Really? Slabs have been around, what, 25 years at best? I have seen copper coins survive red for 70 years, and then turn brown within a couple of years in a slab.

I do not think the jury is in yet about how well they protect coins.

For coins I really want to protect, I use paper envelopes. Most are in Safe-T flips, which I would agree would not be any different than slabs. Plus, I want to handle my coins, not collect plastic.

 

3m adhesive sanding discs.

They come in one inch circles of the following grit:
2,400, 3,200, 4,000, 6,000, 8,000, 10,000, and 12,000 grain per inch.
Start using the grit that clears the deepest scratch: Do use a circular motion with light pressure, making sure to NEVER run the sandpaper astride with the scratch. Use a light as possible pressure. Once that scratch goes away, move up to the next grit. If you start with the 2,400 grit, use ALL grits until you reach 12,000. By that time a gloss will appear on the slab. DO NOT get the 25,000 grit solution anywhere near the edges of the slab seal. The chems in the solution are an unknown quantity, but i never even had an itch from the polish. If you lodge it in the slab seal, cracking may be inevitable. Once you are at the 12,000 grit, the 25,000 grit polish produces a fine mirror. It is what I used on canopy repairs in DOD. This repairs my music CD's to mirror, no problem. Enclosed is the solution polish data. The grit sandpaper is expensive. Lasts forever, seemingly.

 

I came across this thread yesterday while searching for ways to polish out scratches. Since it was so easy and worked so well, I thought I would share my results and revive the thread for others to see.

I followed the exact procedure @desertgem posted. I found the same polish (Scratch out) at the local auto parts store. It was almost half as much ($7) as the other scratch removers. I also bought a microfiber polishing cloth.
I used the coarser side first, then repeated with the fine side.

side note: If you are imaging the slab, it's best to do your final polish in the same direction as the light.

The cloth.


Here is a before and after on a brown box ike slab.

 

I would like to know what polymers are in this compound; solely for the interaction it "could" have with the coin. If it is dissolving plastics it is extremely volatile. Who knows if when you open your safe in a year if your coin will have patches of neon pink all over it?

 

You're saying that like it's a bad thing.

But really, I understand your concern. It is something to think about.

 

If it did, just list it on Ebay for five times its vale and buy another one.

 

Hey, some old names on this thread, guys that I've not seen for a spell. Just Carl used to post a lot but haven't seen him lately.

I'm glad you resurrected this thread Greg as it does provide valuable insight on how to remove the dreaded scratches on slabs. As Jim mentioned earlier (years ago?) the product is also great for removing scratches and haze from plastic head lamp covers.

 

Are these safe methods?

 

I would guess some of these products are safe and some are questionable.

 

Do not drink. Do not use on cracked, damaged into the interior, or sonic "sealed" edges of slabs.

MSDS -->
http://www.apparts.com/msds/Kit Wax MSDS/Scratch Out Liquid.pdf

 

I've used plexiglass polish with a power buffing wheel with very good results. I had a GSA case Morgan that was just horrible with a crosshatch pattern in the plastic. came out shiny smooth. that was 5yrs ago. still no problems with the case.

 

I never had luck and messed one of my slabs up. Put the scratch remover on my shelf and now I'm done with that. lol. I'll just reholder from now on.