What should I pay for proof/mints sets? I know people who pay 75% and 80% of bid. Maybe 60% or 70%? I do not wanna take advantage nor rip myself off.
do they say they pay 75-80% or have you seen them pay 75-80%. Sometimes I think it is human nature to lie about what you paid for something. Anyway, most proof sets are pretty inexpensive as it is.
Evorlor, in the coin dealer business, they use the Graysheet. Which lists bid/ask prices for coins. Bid is what dealers like to pay, ask is what they hope their customers will pay. That is my take, if I am off feel free to correct me.
Dealers will more often pay 10-20% back of CDN Bid with the hope of selling somewhere between Bid & Ask. If their intention is to simply flip them to another dealer, the offer price might even be less than that. Chris
cpm9ball is right, and it also depends on how quickly the particular proof set is and who you are going to resell to ... or if you don't have a buyer in mind.
Price of proof sets is condition dependent, examine proof sets carefully for gems. When you are considering purchasing a proof set it is very helpful to find out what the average higher grades are. Some proof sets have plentiful 68-70 graded coins out there, and some proof coins in those grades are scarce as hen's teeth. Find out what years the seller has and read up from Population reports on available grade spreads in those proof set coins. Then when you eyeball the set,you have a tally already set in your head: For instance,the Kennedy half for a particular year is plentiful, but the quarter is tight in higher grades. Look at all the coins, obverse and reverse, like card counters make their running tallies during a poker game. Once you are sure that Kennedy Half is a cull coin, you can dismiss it as part of the set. After all, your objective is either higher grades to replace coins in your collection already, or better grades to get graded and sell, or sell outright. Then if the quarter, nickel, dime and cent are all keepers, you don't fret so much buying the set that has a cull Kennedy in it. You might even find someone who has a group of coin sets their relatives handed down, and who is not aware of the prices of graded coins from proof sets. You might buy that group for cheap, and really clean up, with excellent coins across the whole purchased set group. Some proof sets were overproduced, and it may be forever before they rise in value. On the other hand, proof set prices generally are set at pf65 recommendations: that means there is an assumption of pf65 coins across the set. If you see 68-70 coins in the set, and you know the population reports in those grades is scant, by all means, take the set off their hands. When I offer to purchase a seller's coins, I offer sight unseen: that way I don't end up grading someone's sets for them and watching them sell to a dealer once they find out the potential worth. If you have not seen the sets, you can't be accused of low balling them on values. That may be the reason some dealers seem to bid very low.
What decade are we talking about here? 60's and 70's I picked up recently on an average of $7.50 per set, for a total of $270 for both decades. The 80's sets will run me $6.50 per set average for a total of $58.50 The 90's are going to be more expensive at $20.25 per set on average for a total of $182.40.
Um......I hate to be a stickler for numbers, but $270 for 20 sets is not an average of $7.50. It's $13.50. For the 80's, 10 sets for $58.50 is an average of $5.85, not $6.50, and 10 sets for the 90's at $20.25 per set is $202.50, not $182.40. Chris
Buying Proof set silver or clad It depends on 2 thing to me 1st is on that been picked over/Coin Vault or TV Proof set or 2nd one that you know that it has not been checked out cherrypicked,that is the one I would buy
My best advice to you is do some price comparison from different dealers and/or sellers and get an idea what they're asking for their proof and mint sets.
