Photo Critique: Toned Roosie and Jefferson

Ok I have a few different Roosies and a jefferson that I am testing out. I have been taking many photo's of toned coins and having a lot of trouble mainly due to reflections of the coins or the color's just don't turn out right.

After completing these samples these still seem "bright" but not to shabby for the first go-a-round especially since I didnt really edit the photo to much. These coins also may appear a little blurry and that is due to them being in a 2x2.

How did you think I did and what can i do in order to do better..Mucho gracios as always! Lehigh, see what you got yourself into and now everyone likes your photographs!!

54 S Jefferson Nickel




I think this 61 Roosie Proof Dime is a little "bright"..somethign aint right with it.



I like this picture until I got done with this and I hate the Obverse (like I need to tone it down a hair or should have moved the light just a little bight) on this 62 Roosevelt Proof Dime.



In this example I feel on this 1962 Roos. Proof Obverse gives the feeling that its in a cover.

 

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Going to try to post more pictures later on this coming week. Hopefully improving my skills

 

The colors on that nickel literally look like they were applied with a paintbrush. Until proven otherwise, I am going to assume that's exactly where they came from.

Although, to answer the point of the thread - your pictures are pretty good. Proof coins, especially toners, are quite challenging to light properly. Just keep playing around with the angles until you eliminate the glare. How many lights are you using?

 

I am using 4 x 13 Watt Energy Efficient bulbs = 35 watt bulbs I believe (3 multi directional and one near/pointing to the coin). That's definitely not paint on nickel imho. Paint will leave streaks/runs and blend in with other colors. try it for yourself and see especially since its not a flat surface it makes it that more challenging to do. Also paint will leave a layer above the coin which A. cause the "9" and "4" / and all other holes to be filled with paint and same thing with the letters "O" in Monticello and OF on the reverse side.

if it is paint, then I will give major props to the one who did it cause they are very talented and I am jealous

 

I didn't mean that it was literally paint. I meant that it is some sort of Artificial Toning chemical applied by a paintbrush. The streaks of color look like the strokes of a brush. I suppose someone could argue that it was caused by a thumb or something, but I have never seen a fingerprint tone that way - it looks highly suspicious to me.

 

The pics are pretty good. The details are great, but it looks like the color is off a little (too yellow), maybe check the white balance.

 

it may very well be. I will still like to believe it is NT and something i enjoy looking at just b/c it's different..like you

 

If by "Energy Efficient" you mean fluorescent (and I believe that is what you mean), then one 13 watt bulb is equivalent to a 60 watt incandescent. I think you are using too much light.

 

Yes Dick, that is what I mean and will try to look for new lights tomorrow.

 

You don't need new lights - that is what I use and I have three of them also. You just need to adjust the aperture and f-stop settings on your camera. If you are shooting in automatic mode, you need to go into manual mode and adjust these settings. Play around with them until you find the setting that works best for you.

 

Thanks Physics, What f stop has worked best for you? I normally shoot in Manual at 8 or 9 f stops and the aperacture is at 100 to 300 depending on the light angle or I will shoot in macro mode which shoots everything in auto mode.

Thanks a bunch.

 

Try 2 light first. If that does give you better color, then try looking for the lights. Considering that it is not unusual to use a single light, you may find that is all you need if you get the right angle. Also, try reading http://www.cointalk.com/t56246/

 

lol I have read that article several times as well as others from different forums. I do appreciate you taking the time to give me advice. :bow:

 

I usually shoot on the absolute lowest F-stop I can. With the settings I usually use, that's around F3.5. My aperture varies between 1/300 and 1/800, depending on the brightness and luster of the coin, angle of the lights, toning, etc. This combination of f-stop and aperture gives me a much better focus with my camera, and makes the details pop a little better.

 

that makes sense to me as for my f-stop only down to 5.6 (using a Rebel ESi 18-55mm IS lens). I would love to get a macro lens however i rather buy coins lol.

 

Excellent thread!

Just a minor correction in terminology.... f stop and aperture are the same thing (the smaller the number the larger the lens aperture opening). Also, the smaller the opening the greater the depth of field (more area, in depth, that is in focus).



The other is shutter speed eg. 1/300 which is 1 300th of a second.:smile

 

Not uncommon to see brush stroke like toning on jeffersons

 

Great dimes btw............love that look

 

Shrek, you don't need a macro lens. you can get an extension tube which should come with 4 extensions that you lens will go onto and turns it into a macro like lens. ex: http://cgi.ebay.com/Extension-Tube-..._Photographic_Accessories&hash=item4398b7e8ab just find one for your camera I paid like $75 for mine 3 year ago

 

yes you are absolutely correct. How to tell the difference between shutterspeed vs Aperture? http://digital-photography-school.com/aperture-and-shutter-priority-modes or http://www.digicamguides.com/learn/exposure.html

(may need to hit ESC when the ad pops up BUT very good article.