...........a binocular or trinocular stereomicroscope for your close-up photos? My visioin seems to be getting worse, and there are so many photos posted where I just can't see the details that others see. I've even resorted to using the microscope for sorting out coins for submissions. It paid off for me when I submitted 54 - 2007P Sac business strikes. 14 came back MS68, 38 came back MS67 and two were MS66 (brain fart?). But, when it comes to posting close-up photos, the stereomicroscope is the only way I can see some things. Chris
Nope, never have. And I'm about blind without my glasses. I just use a good old fashioned magnifying glass to look at pics. And loupes for coins, either 5x or 10x if needed, which is rare.
I can't help your vision, but it may help seeing pictures on you monitor if you get a new monitor. I speak from personal experience. I went from seeing half of what everyone else was seeing to seeing things not everyone is seeing by getting a new monitor (and computer). Just ask Doug how much better I can see now.
Monitor quality can have a huge impact online. I personally switch between my 42" HDTV (Via HDMI... sexy) and my 13" notebook, and the difference is simply astounding. For looking at actual coins, my eyes are still good enough to pick up minor stuff and some DD's without the use of a loupe, but the loupe makes it so much easier.
My background is a little different after having been in Microbiology for decades and using almost every kind of magnifying device except acoustic and other advanced kind, but have used SEM and TEMs. I use a stereo microscope with a zoom ( .7-3.0 ) which with various eyepieces can give me magnification from 1.75X to 60X. It is not so much the magnification, as it is the control of focus, the ability to set up and keep a consistent lighting, both dead on, and edge, and stability of the coin position when photographing. The camera can either be part of a stereo microscope, or one can shoot through the eyepiece very well with even a point and shoot digital camera. If I shoot a photo and upon resizing it in the computer, I notice a glare, I can replace it on the scope and it is basically the same image and I can make the small alteration to remove the problem. With a good stereo microscope, one lens usually is an adjustable diopter, so with a setup of that feature, I can use the scope without my bifocals, and it is so much more comfortable. In searching through coins, I can put a number on a flat surface carrier ( small square of white plastic) and quickly move from one coin to another. Kudos to those who can use a loupe effectively and quickly, and can hold their breath so they don't spray invisible secretions on a coin, but as the gun people say, you will have to pry my stereoscope away from my cold dead hands Jim
I have a trinocular stereomicroscope and use it but a broken camera keeps me from using it for pictures atm.
Those are great photos. I have never used a stereomicroscope for coins but want to after seeing those pics. TC
TC, If you ever decide to get one, I would recommend that it be a trinocular scope. Mine is a binocular, and it's a pain going back and forth from the eyeguard to the camera attachment. It's difficult to focus in on the exact area you want to photograph when you only look through one eyepiece. Chris
Chris, what kind of trinocular microscope would you recomend. I have been wanting to get one for a while but I wanted to get the right one. I also want to be able to take pictures with it as well
I'd like to get a trinocular stereomicroscope but I can't justify the expense. After an initial spate of use it would probably sit off on the side gathering dust. Want one, YES. Need one, NO.
My vision has been degrading all too rapidly...and like a few of you out there I'm probably legally blind without my glasses... I have to use a 30x loupe just to sort coins, and that totally sucks.
If you Google trinocular microscope, you will get quite a few selections. Here is just one: http://dissectingmicroscope.com/003t000m.html The price on this one seems reasonable, but I didn't take the time to compare it to others. When I bought my binocular scope 6 years ago, it cost $825 + $30 shipping, but prices have come down since then. The important things you want to consider are: 1) Magnification: Look for one that has a low-end magnifier, like this one, 7X. It appears that it will enable you to take full-coin photos of a quarter. With mine, I can barely get a full photo of a penny. The max on this one, I believe is 90X which is more than adequate for hi-res details. 2) Zoom capability: This is a must! Don't settle for one that doesn't have zoom capability. 3) USB camera & accessories: Make sure that it is included in the price as it is with this one. Some companies charge extra and you can easily spend $1K or more for the complete package. 4) 640x480 photos: This should be the minimum size so that you don't have to enlarge before posting and they can be easily sent via e-mail. 5) Lighting: You want one that has overhead illumination built into the scope, and halogen is preferable but not necessarily a deal breaker. If it doesn't have over head lighting, pass on it. I'd also recommend that you order extra replacement bulbs. (You might have to call their customer service # to order them.) In 6 years, I've only had to replace them twice, but it saves you the hassle down the road if it should burn out and you have to wait 2-3 weeks for delivery. To give you an idea how long the bulb can last, I use my scope 3-5 times per week for about 2 hours each time. I can't think of anything else at the moment, but if you have any other questions, feel free to send me a PM. Chris
That does suck. Last year at my distance eye test the machine said my eyes were 00.00. Thats suppose to be perfect, but since then I'm back to the doctor every 2 months to check for Glaucoma in my left Eye. Its fading fast, but as long as I've got one good eye I'm still good to go...
Thanks Chris, that is by far the best explanation of what is needed to get a good scope that can take pictures. Thanks
My preference is not for an USB builtin camera due to the low resolution. I find no problem in just holding the camera up to an eyepiece and using the zoom, macro , and auto focus of a point and shoot with 8+ mp.I prefer a higher resolution to be able to crop or work with a software program without inducing false "noise". JMO. Jim
Hand Held? You hand hold? That is the 1st "induced loss of detail" I prefer to eliminate. But I've seen you photos, so I know it works for you. I'm just surprised. You must not have a heartbeat, drink coffee....Redbull.....tea.....sodas......or anything! The last time I knew anybody that could hold dead still.....was dead! :goofer:
My old point and shoot Canon 590 IS does have image stabilization where the light blinks until you have a study position and then a gentle shutter ( or equivalent in a digital ). Also it has a timer, so you don't have to use the shutter. set for 5 sec, push, hold study,click sound and a sharp photo handheld. Jim