Do you happen to know the composition of Deller's Darkener? I'd like to know what ingredients should be avoided or reduced if that is similar to a sulfur/vaseline mix.
The old tale I heard when I was younger,back in the days before dust,when only large rocks roamed the earth.they say.when its a full moon,if you lick the coin,and rub it with salted frog guts,and then light it on fire.it will slowly burn into a multi color flame a mist of blue smoke will rise when the flame goes out,and when the mist is gone,so will your worries.
Im a dialysis assistant. Anyway just an F.Y.I. the hard boiled egg method did not come out well color wise, very ugly.
Interesting, what made you say that? I'm a pharmacy student, true. Off topic: Who else on here is med? Vaseline on silver as far as I know doesn't cause anything. I'll add a very small amount of sulfur into the mix and see what happens, I won't expose it to too much, and based on what happens I'll adjust the paste. I can change the vaseline to something else though... I was just thinking of a carrier vehicle for the sulfur that would keep the sulfur on the surface evenly everywhere. After looking at Boss's old thread about the lincoln everyone tried to revive, I'll definitely use a very low-sulfur paste mix in my experiment. That way, if it does cause changes in the coin's appearance, it would be slow enough to control and modify, and I won't just have an "after" picture of a rotten coin.
A medical student is an aspiring doctor. In the context of this thread, it meant aspiring coin doctor. Coincidence seems to have killed my friendly jab. While I am sure that all of the medical students have the best intentions experimenting with AT, good results and the lure of easy profits can lead you down an evil path.
I agree, but we're just trying to see if nature can be accelerated and see if the idea is even possible. Take the windowsill idea that has been successful for many: sulfur in the air slowly reacting with the coin's surface in a humid, hot environment with some sunlight and toning. It intrigues me to know if that process would occur faster if the amount of sulfur is increased, moisture is introduced and a heated environment is kept. If the result is the same as nature, but takes half the time, I think it has the potential for benefit.
I see your point, definitely. But personally I can tell you I don't support coin doctoring for profits, I'm just trying it out to enjoy one of my coins more. I don't know what others may do if they knew how to speed up toning, and I can see the more sinister motives, but that's everyone's personal decision. I intend on doing it out of curiosity, and really do just have the intention to tone one of my coins that I'll never sell and be happy.
I got the joke and was adding to your subtle humor,along with an added boost for the skizo's.Im not commenting in this thread,its jumped off the high board as it is.
As far as I know, the old formulation of Deller's was basically as you are proposing. His directions said if you over tone it, remove the excess with olive oil, but that doesn't work, as Boss found. You mainly end up with CuS, which gives the dark brown/blackish toning. The only definitive difference between NT and AT is intent. Chemistry is chemistry. If it is market acceptable by the TPS, a person can rant all they want, but they can't deny it realistically, Mother nature uses the same chemical reactions. I have seen natural toning that is as ugly or uglier than AT, and visa versa. Tattoos are the AT of skin surfaces so there! Let nature do it ! Seems silly huh.
Rut Ro:crying::crying::crying::crying::crying::crying::crying::crying::crying::crying::crying::crying:
Best advice you're gonna get - forget your idea. Forget you even had the idea ! Folks there are more homemade methods for toning coins than there are members of this forum. And every single one you can think of or possibly ever dream up has been tried 10,000 times by somebody else. Each one with disasterous results. There is one possible exaception that has been mentioned so far, a cigar box. That actually works. You may or may not like the toning you get but it works. You should also understand 1 basic tenet of toning before experimenting - natural toning generally only occurs on MS coins. That is because luster is one of the requirements for toning. If a coin is circulated to the point that it has little or no luster, then your efforts will typically be for naught.
My apologies for the wrong assumption, My reasons are as I stated "long term" and without the use of chemicals, heat source, or electricity or any other method that would achieve a tone fastter than natures intention. I plan on keeping all my coins for 40+ years but I sure would love to see them over time gain those beautiful natural toning colors. I dont want slow the process either which is why I ask if the manner I have them stored would either help or slow it down.
Joey, as was suggested, replace the soft flips because they may contain PVC which can damage the coins. Just because a dealer put the coins in those soft flips and/or baggies doesn't mean they are safe. The dealer may just buy the cheapest thing available to save on expenses and assume that the buyer will remove them when they get home. If you want to try to tone some of your coins, put them in the individual 2x2 Kraft envelopes and wait for 50 years. Chris
A ¢heap (and safe) way to tone For copper coins, leave them in old gym sox for a few weeks or so. This will change the surface(s) from red to brown. You won't get the spectacular tones that many Morgan dollars have, but the copper will turn brown. I haven't tried this with sliver, but I suspect (assuming a uniform clean bright original surface) that you would get a uniform (and boring) surface toning, If you are looking to get spectacular gradients on silver coins—and have it look natural—plan on it taking a year or more (and not using the gym sox method).