What kind of camera are you using? Does it have a built-in macro or super macro setting? The auto setting isn't the best option. Chris
It's a 7.0 megapixel with macro. But I don't know if I should use the setting for "fireworks", text, people, nature, etc. There are a lot of options. This was the most simplified I think ? Heck, I know much less about cameras than I do coins. That should tell you a lot. LOL Should I use the zoom to fill the LCD ?
Maybe a little zoom,and need a little bit less light.but big improvement.looks real clear. that tripod should make it alot easier
Well, probably wont get the tripod for a month or so. eBay item $0.99 + free shipping, Item location Hong Kong. LOL I have made some really good buys on stuff, but it takes a long time to get it. Got a couple of ideas to try in the next day or two. Pic does show the doubling on the O in OF pretty good though.
With the macro it really shouldn't look so far away. Try to fill the viewfinder with the coin and less background.
Its an Insignia NS-DSC7P09. I have read the manual or tried to several times, but with the different modes and menus for each, it's time consuming. I have macular degeneration, and the LCD will look very clear to me, yet the pic is out of focus ? I guess maybe I need to rig up something to magnify the Camera ? LOL I ever get a decent pic, maybe I ought to try and sell this one fast ?
No offense, Gary, but if you want to be serious about coin photography, you will have to get a better camera. Chris
Thanks. No Offense at all. But my situation is such that acquiring more things is the opposite of what should be done. You are correct though, but my need is to photograph the coins is for identification and to improve marketability. But I am trying to not make this a long term project. LOL
Better pics I played with the cam and think I need to get the tripod. Then I can make shims to help adjust the focus. I think it's all in the distance. I did get a scan after I toned the lighting down and set it to 2400 dpi. At least you can see where most of the doubling is. Along the south of the Q and follows to the U the east leg of the R Lot of doubling on the OF and the AMERICA I really hope you guys can see it. And are we still posting pics of clip planchet lincolns prior to 1980 ?
Mad, Let me understand. I am seeing some hard lines between the top letters and the bottom letters that really look like it's stacked on top of each other, but just a bit north with the top lettering. I wish you could see the coin itself. It;s like a ghost. I have another scan that I painted arrows to see where I mean, An especially good hard line shows up on the A in DOLLAR. If it's a hard hit just off the first strike, then is that "doubling" ?
OK, That's what I got then. The top letter is almost right on top of the one below it, but the first letter is always exposed to the south with s few definite lines like the center of the M in America and on the bottom of the E and A. The best image is the bottom right inside of the right leg of the A in Dollar, There is a clear pick up of the image there. Anyway, my eyes gave out. I am going to get a decent pic of this sooner or later.
Mad outcast is so right I just sent to pcgs a 1922 peace clearly the second 2 was doubled I thought this was a vam error for sure but it was not recognized as such.
One of the easiest ways to think of it is.if you can imagine a waterpark,and they have a slide that slopes like a bumpy hill.A DD should retain a very sharp edge most of the time,unless it is a full number or letter like on a 55 DDr if you have some mash potatoes and you squash your spoon through it bottom side,the top edge will have a rounded edge.its from the metal die squashing down,the metal top goes down with it,it gets sucked down.A DD is an exact replacement of that letter or number,that is right next to it.it may be very small or slim,but it is exact.