Plays with axial lighting

Some examples of photos taken with my under 20$ axial lighting setup. I got tired of struggling to get images of copper that were lifeless. It can also capture thin layers of iridescence on worn silver, as well. Imaging coins in slabs has been inconsistent for me, so these are all raw coins. No adjustments made to color or brightness.










The HTT was probably treated with MS70-- neat color, but will never slab! The large cent is very dark, axial light brought out some very subtle highlights. I think it went rather well.
The IHC is a bit fuzzy, as I enlarged it so it was sized like the others. Should have left it small.

 

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The pics are excellent! Post a shot of your set-up, I'd like to see it!

 

Oops, my camera is snugly mounted on the copy stand right now, I'll try to later. It's pretty simple, I got the idea from the "coins and paper money " discussion board on eBay, go there and search 'axial lighting.' Light source is a gooseneck light with 100w GE reveal bulb aimed straight into the apparatus, parallel to the coin.

 

never mind.

 

Photos are clear, but in my opinion, a little on the dark side.

 

Thanks. I may play with the exposure a bit and try some lighter.
here is one of my favorite Seated Dollars, even though it came out of an NCS holder for the rim hits. It may have also had an old cleaning, but IMO retoned in a leather purse.. it has a deep, gray-violet tone with bronze highlights. Note that axial lighting is totally unsparing as to surface condition, and probably exaggerates hits and abrasions, even as it picks up subtle colors.

 

I think the dark background is creating that illusion for you. I think that to capture the color they are in good light.

 

I love the uniform toning on that quarter, very even and almost chocolaty in appearance.

 

That IHC looks awesome!

 

It really does, in hand, of course, you have to tilt it just right to catch the iridescence. That's the beauty of the axial technique.
(I'm starting to wonder if that faint greenish hue on my 1811/10 large cent might be PVC residue(!) Think baby needs a (acetone) bath! This would not be the first time I have spotted problems on coins from large photos, either.

 

1879 cent is A+ looks like a Dansco cent. nice pics on it too

 

here's some more worn silver, a 1919 Walker. Axial lighting shows everything, warts and all. And a CWT, "Hero of Pea Ridge," honoring Franz Sigel (not really known for his bravery in battle, I suspect the action was taking place off to the right somewhere)






Walker obv a little fuzzy, not sure why. will have to redo that one. using F 5.6, almost no depth of field.

 

Any chance you could post a photo of your Axial lighting setup?

 

I'll be glad to once I"m done taking photos, the camera is on the copystand over the axial setup. 2 inexpensive frames from Ben Franklin, a couple of little brass hinges to hold the frames together, gooseneck lamp and a skinny bungie cord.

 

OK, I found a little pocket camera. First shot shows my copy stand setup; it has 2 arms off to the sides holding lamps, which are not used for axial lighting, of course. On the stand base, directly under the camera, you see the axial light frame open at about 45 degrees, sitting on the glass of the bottom frame is a piece of blue velvet on which is my 1846 dollar.
Notice the dark cord running from the top frame up to the flexible arm on the right? that's how I adjust the opening angle of the top frame.

 

This view is to show the 2 frames, held together with brass hinges. The gooseneck light with 100w bulb is off to the right. The angle of the top frame is adjusted while looking through the camera viewfinder until the illumination looks right (Looking straight down through the glass of the top frame, which reflects the light onto the coin). The lightweight bungie cord hooked to the top frame is attached to a zip tie around the flexible light arm; by sliding it in or out I can raise and lower the top frame to the precise angle I need. Other people use a stick and putty to prop the frame open. See the little blue box sitting on the lower frame between the coin and the light source? that is to block direct light from hitting the coin; all you want is reflected light off the glass of the upper frame.
Since my copy stand base is hard and slick, to keep the frame in place I put little blobs of putty under the corners to keep it from sliding. The putty can also be used to level the frame relative to the camera back, so they are parallel.
You can also see the screw eye in the upper frame to anchor the bungie cord using a paper clip. (Rube Goldberg, all the way!)
The hood of the gooseneck lamp is in the lower righthand corner.

 

Those coins would make alot of shots better...terrific.The photos are good.

 

One more pic from a slightly different angle:



Note that on the right I draped velvet in front of the camera support column, which is chrome plated and caused reflections onto the glass of the frame.

Note: the hooded lamp to the right is NOT used for axial lighting, I use the side lamps for most slabbed coins and bright silver.

 

Wow, the cord connected from the axial light frame to the goose-neck is ingenious. The [copper] token and the IHC look amazing.

 

Thanks! Did I mention I'm related to McGyver? LOL
Here are a couple of busties I just shot 5 min. ago: