Struggling...

Ok fuys, having a hard time distinguishing between the reprocessed (dipped) and the normal coins. Can u give me some pointers that would help me see the difference? What is it that gives it away to you?.

Looking at these I would guess the 2 on the bottom are reprocessed? But thats only based on how it just looks a lil different ti me. Not based on any specific thing
Thanks

 

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You could weigh them. If they were heavy it would indicate something was added to them, coating them . If you don't have a scale perhaps take a closer look at the devices. Do they all seem to have that heavy syruppy look where they seem to be melting, not rigid? As though the entire coin wore evenly. Probably wearing a coat of something it didn't have when it left the mint. There's folks on here who can tell you several ways to do that. You could also put it to a magnet and see what it does. If or not taking into consideration years and metallic content, that would be my suggestions....martha

 

The 55s look very pretty in the photo. They even seem to have a cartwheel luster too. Guess it is hard to really tell by just photos.

 

As a side note you're extremely un-likely to find reprocessed moderns. Other than things like gold plated coins that were sold on tv kinda thing.

'43 steels...bajillions of reprocessed ones. They are some fun learning!

Those don't look reprocessed to me at all. Learning to recognize that luster vs. a coin that is "dead inside" is an important skill to get a sense of. In very simple terms it's the difference between shiny and what an original lustrous surface looks like. It takes practice...you'll especially start to recognize when it's NOT the original luster of the coin much more easily...the luster in a sense gets literally wiped away over time/wear/environment.

@MeowtheKitty mentioned the cartwheel luster...hold the coin and rotate/rock it like it's been spun on a table and is slowing down, if that makes sense...you will likely see the luster move and flow, often in a wheel or spinning or swirling pattern.

Reprocessing a coin utterly kills the original luster, even though it may still be shiny.

 

Reprocessed as l understand, has to do with some type of plating. Often with war nickels and steel cents that are worn.
Any copper cents that are dipped usually end up having a strange pink color.
All those in your pictures look original to me.

 

Good pointers for IDing reprocessed/plated coins from the members. Your 1955 coins shown might have been cleaned at one time or pulled from mint sets. They look great if you found those while CRH.

 

i am so glad i post these random things cause you guys comments helping alot! as well as dgiving me more things to loo up, look at etc. cartwheel liuster? first time hearing this.

 

but i thought cleaned was no good? and yes. out of shotgun rolls.

 

i was worried cuz alot of the ones that are shiny new looking just so happen to be key dates. and a con artist dipping them made sense to me.. more so than finding one that still had retained its original color. I also have took the wear into mind when i see a shiny older coin. if its really dull and mushy but a brilliant copper i would question it

 

i did. just now. 1 of the 1955 weighed 3.2.. all the others weighed exactly what they are supposed to.

 

From the IH thru the LMC ,correct me if I'm wrong about the IH, up to October of "82 were copper planchets weighing 3.11 grams give or take I think 10% tolerance. After that the cent coin went thru a transition of its metallic content. The new mix was zinc core with only microns of copper covering it. These coins should weigh 2.5 grams.. You will find a mix of these weights with varying mm though out "82. I believe 7 different ones are out there. LOOK FOR the "82 small date D weighing 3.11 grams for one example . $$ Whoops, forgot about the "43 steel. I think it is 2.7 grams. Hey, check out your Red Book about this. Got one ?

 

I just want to know what a fuy is?

 

i do. trying to circumnavigate it..

 

Cartwheel effect is related to mint luster. Hold an unc coin properly under a light source. Tilt it slightly from side to side.
You should be able to see two rays opposite each other rotating.

Dipped coins and lightly circulated coins may still show some mint luster and cartwheel effect but improperly cleaned coins will not.

Bottom line, don't clean coins, don't buy cleaned coins. When the time comes to sell, a knowledgeable buyer will be looking for luster, cartwheel effect as well as damage, wear and contact marks.

 

Take that 1955D, bottom left in picture above. See those two light areas?

They are exactly what will rotate in looking for the cartwheel effect.

 

Oh, ok. At the start of each different denomination they have a brief cheat sheet on how to grade tips, and other info like the weight and diameter, ect.. ..You'll find it there.

 

Those nice ones at the bottom of your photo are 100% not cleaned.
They actually look a little bit worn (tough to tell unless you take a really sharp photo) but very lustrous...common for coins around those years.

You'll even stumble into heavily worn coins where a lot of luster has survived for whatever reason...that's where it really gets fun and you do more learning regarding strike quality and the difference between circulation wear (AU grades and lower) and contact marks from only other coins (MS grades).

 

Warning: "Weighing a coin is of absolutely NO HELP AT ALL to determine if a coin has been reprocessed (usually referring to plated steel cents) or cleaned." Coins have a theoretical standard weight that varies enough to include alterations.

The COLOR of the coin's surface IS the most important characteristic to determine its originality. You learn this by experience looking at original coins IN HAND already graded MS-65 and higher.

 

Those coins look fine. No alteration or cleaning.
The 1955 D and S being found together leads me to believe they were saved, collected, together until recently. I’ve found the remains of collections in rolls before. Examine the rest carefully

 

@Kristine Garrant, if I may, I would recommend procuring a book authored by one of CT's most knowledgeable members. It will be one of the best few dollars you'll ever spend and will answer many of the questions you ask in greater detail than you'll get here in a piecemeal fashion. The book is

The Art and Science of Grading Coins by Jason Poe whose avatar on CT is @physics-fan3.14.

Amazon at $20
EBay at about $16.

You might also try searching some of Jason's threads here. He may sell it directly.