I'm new to this forum so excuse me if this question is repetitive. (I didn't see it on a quick check in FAQ.) When selling a details grade coin, what percent of mark down do you expect to take compared to it's details grade value? I have a coin which was sent to NCS and returned and slabbed as Uncirculated Improperly Cleaned. I sent it into ANACS and had it cross graded. They called me and said they would grade it as MS60 Cleaned. I felt getting an actual numerical and detail grade was better that the NCS holder with just Uncirculated. I also like the tone of cleaned vs improperly cleaned. Now, how much should I expect to discount this coin from it's MS60 details grade? It's a Hawaiian 1883 half dollar. Red Book is $1500. I'm guessing about one third. What are your experiences? NCS did a nice job, by the way.
Your in luck on this one cause it's a tough coin but still, Your in luck on this one cause it's a tough coin but still, it has to go to at best a high XF-45 and it all depends on "the cleaning" maybe an AU but only for a tougher coin like this - if a copper it would be VF-35 money on it's best day unless a common coin and then we would not be even talking about right?
There is absolutely zero difference between an "Uncirculated" details grade and an MS60 details grade; the two are interchangeable. The services that put numbers on their details grades all use MS60 (or PR60) for any mint state (or unworn proof) coin. Indeed, the existence of a notable problem on an otherwise unworn coin mandates using a numerical grade of 60. There really isn't a specific rule of thumb for finding out value on details graded coins. The best thing to do is to go to auction records, such as the Heritage Auction Archives, and see what similar items have sold for in the past. In practice, values depend not only on the details grades but also on the type and extent of the problem -- as well as what the coin is (some coins are almost always found with problems, for example).
I know there is no difference between a details grade of Uncirculated vs MS60. My problem is will the buyer know that and will my children realize it. Two unknowns that I thought an actual grade would help clarify. I don't plan to be here for the transaction. I want to attach a dollar figure so my son and daughter get fair market value.
If you want more precise cleaned grade, David Lawrence's grading company (DGS) will give grades like MS62 details. I think I prefer that higher detail grade instead of all unciruculated cleaned coins lumped together as unc details better.
ML94539, I haven't checked the DGS site yet but will shorty. If I knew the exact grade, like a MS61, 62 or 63, I think my kids could negotiate harder for a better price.The fluctuation throughout the MS grades is dramatic. Swhuck's thoughts are difficult to ascertain at Heritage. I use their spreadsheet program and get direct updates from them monthly. There have been only three instances of an exact MS60 grade sold in the past 16 years. That makes for a poor base to average out fair market value. The swing is almost $3500 at the hammer price. Knock out the highest sale, in MS60 grade, and it's average is only $475+. The last one was sold 3 years ago. I bought mine at a live auction and was able to see it in hand before I bid. I didn't see any evidence of cleaning, but then, what do I know. Even after NCS finished with it, it still has good luster (proof like), excellent cartwheeling, no discoloration and a few very minor contact marks in the fields. My guess would be MS62 or 63.
Heritage doesn't sell coins graded by DGS though, generally cleaned coins will sell at discount compared to uncleaned coins. DGS is not as popular as other grading services, I think DLRC is the only dealer that buys and sells DGS coins.
DGS? I don't know, I bought coins from DLRC before, but haven't submitted any to grading service yet.
Sam - whatever the value is now has absolutely no bearing on what the value will be at some point in the future. Many coins have lost 50% of their value in the past year alone. By next year, they may well lose 50% of what they are now. Or they may gain 15%. Who knows what will happen. I understand what you are trying to do, but it is an effort in futility. The best thing you can do for your family & heirs is to provide an accurate list of the coins & identify for them a few trusted dealers for them to contact when the time comes. I say a few, because who knows which ones will still be around when that time does come. But if they have some names to go to of people they can trust - then they will be able to get the best price possible at that time. Whatever that price might be.
