An example of PVC activity.

In a past thread it was asked what PVC "activity" looked like. I didn't have an example then, but I came upon this example of a proof quarter that I had obtained in a soft flip. The "infection" was rather light, but I decided to try acetone to remove it. Here are some photos.

Original infection:



Close up 1



close up 2



and then after a rinse in acetone for a few minutes.



Not perfect, but maybe it will help some that haven't seen it.

Jim

 

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Thanks for that post.
I think it will help lots of the new people with PVC.

 

Desert or Mr. Gem, you are one of the posters/educators/gentlemen that make this forum truly great.

We talk about this, we bemoan it, we support NGO's who fight this!!!!!

Question for you and I read the posts, but you sort of leave it up in the air ---> after the acetone bath, will it still progress - is it a "cancer" or does catching it early nip it in the bud? Or perhaps more directly, can you EVER hope to stop it - or once it has started, you can only slow it down?

Once again, I should know this, but I was also a teacher for 10 years and repetitiion is a key to education.....

<smiley><smiley>

 

I was wondering , if most PVC damage is soft and grainy looking , or slick and oily looking .
rzage

 

Will that residue come off??

 

Doug answered the questions very well, but just wanted to add that the residue is really impossible to see with a 10X loupe. The "after" photo is magnified about 60X. The key is to try and eliminate it before it becomes visible to the eye such as this one, then any damage would be even less. I am sometimes amazed when at a show, PVC damage is visible to the eye and the seller pretends it isn't even there.

Jim

 

Thanks for the photos, I had asked for this in an earlier thread. It sounds like by what Doug said that PVC damage can take on many different looks. I need to get my old stuff out and look at it. I'm not thrilled about the acetone idea since I have never done it.
My real question is if a coin is in a PVC holder but shows no sign of damage should it get a acetone bath or just changed to safe flip? Or could this possibly cause a problem. I'm hesitant to dip nice old coins, esp. coppers.

Lack

 

Hard to say if you worry about the acetone effect. I prefer that to worrying about whether the activity will continue in a safe holder. If it has started ( even if not visible), it can continue to progress , even inside of slabs or airtites, etc. The plasticizers that cause this effect are basically colorless although oily in appearance, the color taken depends on the metal of the coin and the environmental gases and amount of humidity as the damage starts and continues. Once you can see color, it is from corrosion of your coin, and then the coin must be treated. If you do just switch to a safe flip instead, put a dot or something on it to remind you not to reuse the flip in the future for another coin if you move the first one. All IMO.

Jim
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What is considered a safe flip? (sorry if already asked/answered)

 

Hi Namvet,

SAFEST:

Hard plastic holders, such as Airtites, Kointains, Coinedge, Capital and other Acrylic, polystyrene holders such as Eagle, Whitman, Harris, and others.

Flexible plastic flips made of Mylar, PET, or Polypropylene such as E&T Saflips.

SAFER:

To a lesser degree, but generally acceptable ( not archive quality) for common coins, if maintained within normal temperature/humidity conditions are non-plasticized PVC such as Saf-T-Flips.

=============================================

None of the above are really air tight, not even slabs. Some are better than others, but unless vacuum sealed, they can all be exposed to environmental conditions that can lead to toning and possible corrosion. I am sometimes surprised to see coins in safe holders then stored in plasticized PVC binders, or in cardboard boxes that are not protected, or in safes with PVC binders, insurance policy holders, etc.

Food storage quality zip lock bags do offer further protection for cardboard albums, etc.

Hope this has been a little help. Since some opinions may vary on this, IMO.

Jim

 

Great post and pictures!

 

Thanks Thad, Can't wait to see the book !

Jim

 

Thanks Jim.... Appreciate the response... Two more question(s): What is the risk in keeping U.S. Silver coins in Mint lenses and capsules in the OGP? Do they provide any form of "safety"?
Thanks in advance for the answers. . .

 

Very Helpful!! Thank you for the example! I have a 1998 ASE With some Toning and I was not sure if it was PVC damage.. Your example helps.. Mine does NOT have that Turquoise Color.. Wow is that an odd color..

 

Recently as an experiment I purchased a group of 12 Kennedy proofs and one 1970D Kennedy half dollar. Total cost was $19.13. All had PVC damage.
The 1970D was the least damaged and cleaned up right away.
If that one coin is worth let's say $15 then the 12 proofs cost me about 35 cents each.
One by one I started the restoration process. The 1776-1976 Proof had black crap on the reverse and it didn't come out. Two other proof Kennedys showed a little damage after the process. I have three left to do.
On each one I learned a little more as to how to remove the PVC.
Proofs are tricky to restore. But out of 13 coins I have about 8 that really came out nice.

 

Thanks for the info, I have a few of coins the have this
Damage and two of them have that brown flaky look you
Spoke of.

 

Personally , I have never seen any OGP that I had suspicions of plasticized PVC construction, so I am fairly sure they will not contribute to PVC damage of the contained coins. However, I am convinced that such packaging, not being air tight, will exchange air and humidity ( water vapor), and can be toned or corroded within OGP over a period of time determined by environmental conditions. Cellophane does contain pores that allow such exchange, so hard plastic holders that only allow limited exchange on the edges should be more resistant to toning. I would guess hard lenses would be better of the two.

Jim
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