Stoked about tax refund

How do you know it was a good deal if you're asking the forum what the grade is after you bought it? Do you have an idea of what it is? You have it in hand. You should be able to grade it more accurately than the forum. Do you have an ANA 6th edition laying around?

NGC lists an AU-50 at $390 right now. The 6th edition states that a typical AU-50 has 3/4 of the mint luster remaining. Only a trace of wear can show on the legs and breast feathers. And only a trace of wear in front of and in back of Washington's ear. The pics aren't big enough for us to adequately judge.

An EF-40 drops to $258. Most feel that NGC's guide is a bit high. It usually is.
It looks better than a VF, and less than an AU-50 to me. FWIW.

If you want a real test on how good the price was, list it on ebay right now, 10 day auction with a high reserve (so you don't have to sell it) and see what it gets bid up to.

Here's an AU that went for $465 2 weeks ago. Would this have been worth the extra $75? :
http://cgi.ebay.com/1932-D-WASHINGT...mQQptZCoins_US_Individual?hash=item45f09fc166


Here's a pretty nice VF/XF that sold a couple days ago for $159. Do you like yours more than this one?

http://cgi.ebay.com/1932-D-Washingt...mQQptZCoins_US_Individual?hash=item19b9a4dbaa

 

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Well, if you're working on the set, it was probably worth getting the quarter over the Franklins. May as well get it out of the way.

I wouldn't bank on an AU grade personally. But I also think these are somewhat difficult to grade.
You could break it out of the slab easily once you got it back. If you plan to submit yourself, there's a 5 coin minimum at $16 a piece for the cheapest option, plus shipping to and from. Good luck.

 

Thanks for the feedback Vess1. Yes, I would have paid the extra $75 for that first link you listed, that's a beautiful coin!. I would have paid another $75 for this one. Don't get me wrong - I'm happy with the coin. It exceeded my expectations.

I've seen other people post "guess the grade" and I just wanted some feedback from people with way more experience than me. I have just recently started collecting and I use the answers here to gauge my progress on what I would have answered. I still have much to learn. I just recently posted my first ever die clash. No big deal to you, but to me, it was the first time I analyzed the coin and determined it was die clash without just posting a pic and waiting for someone to tell me what it was.

And, admittedly, if this coin is XF, then I must still have some learning to do. I thought it might have a chance at least AU-50. If not, I am not disappointed. It is still a nice coin and I don't have a problem with what I paid for it. I actually bid much more and felt lucky that it didn't take my max price to get it.

 

Maybe, but if you're going to wait for a coin to "turn the corner" you may be in for a very long wait. I remember the guy at Elmhurst Coins telling me 15 years ago that he would buy 3 cent pieces were he me. They have really low mintages and if they get popular, you will do really well. Since I am into coin collecting as a hobby, I decided to go with what I liked instead. I have never regretted that. If you want to try to guess what series will get hot next, be my guest, but be prepared to wait a long time if you can even guess the right series.

The 32-D Washington will never trade at bullion. It will always sell for more.If bullion goes through the roof, the price of the 32-D will keep up with it because it has added value beyond the bullion.

 

I didn't mean to come across so harsh. You don't have to explain yourself to me. I haven't even been back into the hobby serious for 2 years yet so I'm not an authority here by any means. I just think you would be safer sticking to slabbed coins when you consider the higher dollar ones such as these. For now at least. It's just a little bit safer, while you're learning. Once you've seen A LOT of them and get a better feel for the series you are collecting, then you can wade into loose stuff with a little more confidence.
You can purchase a slabbed one and crack it out for your set if you need to.

It pays to look at things from a seller's perspective as well. Not just as a buyer. I have a hard time doing this, myself. I often times gauge what an appropriate price may be by considering what I might be able to sell it for myself and at least break even.

Unless it's something that's really unique and you just want to splurge, you should think about re-sale value, even if you don't plan on selling it. It 'can' help you formulate what a reasonable price should be. Remember that selling most anywhere involves fees. 12-15% loss. So $100 will leave you left with about $88. And the higher the cost, the more scrutiny the purchase should receive as it can be much harder to sell because the pool of buyers shrinks, who can afford and want it. If you don't have both those parts of the equation, there is no buyer.
Those who do will try to negotiate and low ball you so they can buy it off you cheaper. Which may be significantly less than you paid to begin with. Sometimes, you have to walk away. You just move on. You will learn what the good moves were and what the bad ones were as time goes on.
For this quarter, I hope it was a fair price. I honestly wouldn't call it a steal. But that's ok if it's the one you really wanted. I do it too. A fair price isn't always bad.

 

No. It's a nice higher-end XF, not an AU.

If you go to a major show (like the ANA) typically there are graders there from different TPGs. I went to the ANA when it was in Chicago and Randy Campbell gave me an opinion on a few of my coins for free.

I would think that if someone of note was to authenticate your coin for you, that you could avoid the whole paying to slab it only to crack it out for your album thing.

 

It pays to look at things from a seller's perspective as well. Not just as a buyer. I have a hard time doing this, myself. I often times gauge what an appropriate price may be by considering what I might be able to sell it for myself and at least break even.

Read more: http://www.cointalk.com/t90853-2/#ixzz0fI5LfXkL

See, that gives me something to think about, which is exactly why I hang around this site. I learn something new every thread, whether I am involved in it or not.

Sorry - tried to quote your quote.
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Me too. There's always something to learn. Something else I might add is how important it is to make sure you're getting what you're paying for as the dollar values go up. Which is why the slabbed coins can be very helpful at first. But don't just read the labels. Still analyze the coins too.

As to why it becomes more important is because of the broader range of price swing there will be. A $10 coin doesn't have a lot of room to swing on the downward side. The percentage may be large but in real dollars and cents, it isn't that much. Many people overpay and don't even care.

But $2k coin has that much more room to swing in price. There are fewer buyers and those that can and want to, feel that they're in the driver's seat. Now you may be talking hundreds of dollars one way or the other. Which is why it's so important to get what you pay for to begin with and then also make sure it was a reasonable price you paid. They say the money is made or lost the moment you purchase something.

I'll share a secret with you and anyone who chooses to read this. (Which, probably won't be enough to make a dent or matter.)

A perfect example is gift cards on ebay. You want free money? Buy gift cards on ebay. Any day, every day, no catch. For any chain store or restaurant you can think of.
The point is, you can buy a $25 gift card to almost anywhere for $20 shipped without even trying. $100 gift cards can be had for $90 shipped. (They work the same as cash!) But then when you go up to the $500 gift cards, I see many of them sell for $450, sometimes as low as $399 shipped! (But they go fast.) Because they're higher dollar amounts, more price that can be cut so, they're much better deals.
It's the same 20% swing as the $25 ones but the higher you go, the more money you're seeing come off the price. Same goes for higher dollar coins, if you aren't careful. There's more risk and more room for fluctuation if you screw up. That is, if you ever change your mind and decide to sell something down the road for something else. Otherwise, no need to worry about it.

 

That's because you must be one of the EVIL rich people who don't pay their fair share in taxes! (This opinion brought to you by the Democratic administration.)