Do you think this haze can be removed?

Are "white spots" (aka. "milk spots") the same thing as "haze"? If "haze" is the onset of toning, and there was no haze present before the coin was slabbed, wouldn't the slabbing process have to be considered when assessing the cause? I was thinking they may offer to "conserve" your coin...if they can do it.

 

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There is a way to get rid of haze, but if I told you what it was, I'd have to kill you, and I don't want to kill you.

 

You indicate, "it was a perfect beautiful coin"...and now it's still "a perfect beautiful coin"...with some limited haze. Or, maybe "a near-perfect beautiful coin." Understand your disappointment, but haze can be much worse (and let's hope it doesn't get worse). Maybe just bad timing after many years, or...not sure what you had it holdered in during those years prior, and/or how many times the coin had been removed for various reasons during that time, but maybe something with the removal, handling and transfer for grading/holdering at/by NGC exposed it to something or a combination of things past and present. Everything has some risk, however small/slight...you still have a nice coin and not sure I'd do anything to it. Can't wear/walk in your shoes on this, but I'd be just as angst about NGC not orienting the coin's obverse plumb in the holder...rotated too far right and makes both sides look "crooked/cocked" Doesn't matter to some but does to many (more), and NGC should be aware...no excuses by NGC in letting this slide during whatever quality-control inspection before sealing (that said, I see this much more by/from PCGS than NGC).

 

If you dip it you will probably lose the paint job. Sorry it happened to you. I would very definitely contact the TPG for an explanation.
Semper Fi

 

Simple...just dip it in 50%ammonia and distilled water, then rinse in distilled water...a 10 second swish is all it takes, but rinse well. Other dips or acetone do nothing for haze. I've used this method dozens of times with a high success rate and the haze is killed forever, I believe that haze is bacterial in composition, so that's why the ammonia works, any way, what's to loose in trying it out? I doubt the ammonia will attack the paint job, but I just don't know. Acetone will likely melt the paint.

 

I would think white spots and haze are different. The reason I mentioned them was the notice below the photo on the cert page:

 

It was in the original packaging when I received it and there was no haze. I don't know what could have been done before it arrived. I do think removing it from the capsule and having it sit in a flip at NGC for three months could have been the cause of the haze.

The orientation does not bother me too much as it is only slightly rotated. If it was way off, that would have bothered me more.

 

Wow! They actually used the OP's coin as an example of Milk Spots?!

 

Ya...Wow!

 

You will need to crack out the coin in any case or leave it as is. You can send it back to NGC raw and ask for conservation. I suspect that will tie up close to $100+ fees to those guys for the first and second submission.

 

I don't know the value of that coin. I've never seen that coin before. If it's a cheaper coin (less than $100.00). See if you find another one and leave it in it's original capsule if not graded. Modern proofs for the most part aren't worth the money to send them out to slab.

 

I mean it’s not that complicated so I don’t know how I could’ve messed it up.

First I dipped it in. Then I pulled it out and rinsed it with distilled water. Then I patted (never rub) it dry:

That’s about all there is to it.

The haze went away temporarily but then it just came right back.

 

Several shooting forums have contained cautions about reusing metal military type of ammo cans , especially for storage . Mostly due to the chemicals in primers leaking if the ammo is old or reloaded and primers not installed properly. Some/most primers contain mercury fulminate and the mercury reacts with several ,metals including gold, silver, copper.

I would recommend tupperware or other tight seal plastic liners . Sorry, its a beautiful coin. IMO, Jim

p.s. I always dilute EZest by a 1/5 or 1/10 with distilled water. It takes longer, but you have much longer to watch it/rinse it with distilled water...needs more, stick it in again. Jim

 

I didn’t store my coins in the ammo cans.

I stored my coins in my safe which also stored my guns & ammunition.

At the time I thought keeping them seperate would be fine but apparently some of that sulphur got in the air and started to give them a haze or they would develop ugly black toning.

 

No because I didn’t put it back in the gun safe after using E-zest on it. By that time I had my own safe. I even use silica packs for humidity and everything.

 

Good Lord.